When the Good Guy <i> Doesn’t</i> Wear White

THE MOVIE: “Basic Instinct.”

THE SETUP: San Francisco police detective Nick Curran (Michael Douglas) is on the high heels of ice-pick murder suspect and femme fatale Catherine Tramell (Sharon Stone, pictured), while his girlfriend and psychologist Beth Garner (Jeanne Tripplehorn), acts more than concerned.

THE LOOK: From the moment she appears on screen, Tramell is a jolting sight. In her French twist hairdo and snow white sheath with matching swing coat, she could pass for an old-time Hollywood movie star, except that her hems are no longer than a tennis skirt. Then there’s the fact that this darkest of dark characters dresses strictly in blondes-have-more-fun colors--shades of cream, white and smoke. Also consider that here’s a sex goddess whose clothes never show cleavage and don’t cling. They merely skim. While the mixed messages are obviously intended to unsettle, it’s hard to ignore the strong imagery of Tramell’s jewelry. The alligator motif appears twice--on a silver belt buckle and again on a gold bracelet.

In contrast, Beth Garner is always dressed in dark shades, and yes, that’s meant to tell you something. The two women are visually at odds right from the start. Meanwhile, Tramell’s girlfriend Roxy (Leillani Sarelle), turns up in some alluring and powerful looks, including black motorcycle jackets over tight black jeans, and a shirtless gold-encrusted vest. As for Detective Curran, he hardly dresses like your usual rumpled policeman. He wears quite decent suits, shirts and ties in with-it shades of taupe, green and smoky-blue.

THE SOURCES: Costume designer Ellen Mirojnick designed Tramell’s scene-stealing police interrogation dress-and-coat ensemble as well as her explosive disco outfit, a coppery beaded cowl-neck dress with a dipping back. Otherwise, women’s clothes were found piecemeal--a blazer here, a shirt there--in a range of L.A. stores, including Fred Segal, Saks Fifth Avenue and Hermes, which was the source of Tramell’s white cashmere throw as well as the white bee-patterned silk Jacquard men’s tuxedo scarf used at the murder scenes. (The Hermes shop on Rodeo Drive reports a rash of inquiries about the scarfs but has sold only two lately, at $195 each.) Barry Kieselstein-Cord designed all Tramell’s jewelry, including the alligators. Curran’s closet is part C & R Clothiers (the tan trench coat and a sport jacket), part Nino Cerruti (one of the suits). Other suits were bought off-the-rack at Robinson’s and Macy’s.

The PAYOFF: Wardrobe with mystery. Tramell is a Grace Kelly tease in the best sense.