Swine’s Way

Ham is expensive, but it can be very easy on the budget if you luck into butchers’ leftovers, also known as “ends.”

Ends aren’t what you’d call a regular item, but they do turn up from time to time. Be on the lookout whenever you go to--or past--a store that sells expensive sliced ham such as prosciutto. If an end is offered, buy it. You can always chuck it in the freezer if it doesn’t fit into your current meal plan.

Prosciutto is the likeliest find, but Spanish serrano ham, and Smithfield, popular in Chinese as well as Southern circles, are also possibilities. The flavor of each is unique, but regardless of variety all are intensely flavorful, thanks to slow dry curing and long aging.

This intensity means it takes very little ham--especially if you’ve got a bone--to flavor a large pot: vegetables, pasta and/or dried beans.

SPANISH ONE-POT WITH LENTILS, CABBAGE AND HAM

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 large cloves garlic, quartered

2 large carrots, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch chunks

1 small onion, diced 1/4-inch

1 1/2 cups brown lentils

6 cups water

1/2 bay leaf

5 to 8 ounces flavorful ham, in single chunk, or meaty ham bone

1/2 lightly packed cup parsley leaves, coarsely minced

1/2 medium head firm green cabbage, about 1 pound, cut into 4 wedges

Salt

1 lemon, cut in 4 wedges

Freshly ground pepper

Heat oil in non-reactive kettle over medium heat. Add garlic and cook until tender but not colored. Add carrots, onion, lentils, water, bay leaf and ham, partially cover pan and cook 30 minutes, or until lentils are about 2/3 cooked. Liquid should bubble vigorously but should not be at rolling boil, adjust heat if necessary.

Remove ham. Dice meat and return to kettle. Stir in parsley, then bury cabbage wedges in lentils and continue to cook about 20 minutes more, or until cabbage is tender and lentils are very tender. Mixture should be on soupy side, not as wet as soup but with plenty of juice. Taste and add salt if necessary.

Serve in deep bowls, accompanied by lemon wedges and pepper grinder. Makes 4 servings.

PASTA SUPPER WITH HAM AND VEGETABLES

1 pound small pasta such as shells or ditalini

Boiling salted water

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

1 large onion, diced 1/2-inch

1 pound mixed zucchini and yellow squash, cut in 1/4-inch coins

2 large cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

10 sun-dried tomato halves, cut in thin strips

1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 cup chicken broth

5 to 8 ounces flavorful ham, cut or shredded off bone, in 1/3-inch pieces

Scant 1/4 teaspoon salt (omit if broth is salty)

1 sweet red pepper, diced 1/2-inch

1/2 cup lightly packed parsley leaves, minced

1/2 pound mozzarella cheese, whole or part-skim, cut in 1/2-inch cubes

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Crushed hot red pepper

Add pasta to boiling water and cook until tender but firm. Drain and keep warm.

Heat oil and butter in deep, wide skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion and saute until onion starts to turn brown. Add mixed squash and continue to cook, stirring often, until squash starts to brown.

Stir in garlic, dried tomatoes and oregano and saute 1 minute. Pour on broth and ham and cook 5 minutes, or until squash is about half-cooked. Add salt to taste, sweet red pepper and parsley and continue to cook about 5 minutes more, or until squash is very tender and stock is reduced by about 2/3.

Toss pasta with vegetable mixture until well combined, then rapidly stir in mozzarella. Quickly, before cheese gets melted and becomes difficult to manage, divide pasta among plates. Serve at once, accompanied by Parmesan cheese and crushed hot pepper. Makes 4 servings.