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Quick--Which Side’s Up?

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Upside-down cakes are an American invention. Sometimes called skillet cakes, they not only can be baked in an oven but on top of a stove, in a covered electric skillet or even outdoors, using a Dutch oven fueled by charcoal briquettes.

Variations abound--even for the pineapple variety of this cake. Traditionally, slices of fruit are used, but some recipes call for crushed pineapple or chunks. Nuts can be added for flavor or even as a replacement for the more standard maraschino cherries. The batter may be yellow, spice or perhaps gingerbread.

The only set rule is how the cake is assembled: Glaze ingredients are placed in the bottom of the pan and covered with the batter. After baking, the cake is turned upside down so the glaze becomes the top.

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This glaze of butter, sugar and juices from the fruit holds in the cake’s moisture. Enzymes in the pineapple act as a tenderizer.

In the most traditional version, either pineapple packed in its own juice or heavy syrup may be used. Drain the fruit slices, reserving two tablespoons of the juice or syrup. (Use the remainder in gelatin salads or fruit drinks.)

A cast-iron skillet is ideal for making the cake, but any heavy skillet that is oven-proof will do. Melt the butter in the skillet, add the brown sugar and stir until it has melted (Step 1).

Remove the pan from the heat and arrange seven or eight pineapple slices over the sugar mixture (Step 2). When using eight, it will probably be necessary to slightly overlap the slices around the edge of the pan. Fill the center of each ring with a cherry half, cut side up (Step 3).

To make the cake batter, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl. Add the shortening and milk and beat until this mixture is smooth. Next add an egg and the reserved syrup and beat two minutes longer.

Gently begin spooning the batter over the ingredients in the skillet (Step 4), then carefully spread the remaining batter into an even layer without disturbing fruit (Step 5).

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Bake the cake about 45 minutes, until golden brown and the surface springs back when gently pressed with your fingertips (Step 6).

After removing from the oven, allow the cake to cool on a wire rack for about five minutes. Loosen the cake around the edge of the skillet with a small spatula, then place an inverted serving platter over the cake and turn both upside down. Shake gently before removing the skillet.

The cake is best served warm, accompanied by whipped cream or ice cream, if desired.

PINEAPPLE UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE

2 (8-ounce) cans sliced pineapple in juice

1/4 cup butter or margarine

2/3 cup light brown sugar, packed

4 red maraschino cherries, halved

1 cup flour

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup shortening

1/2 cup milk

1 egg

Drain pineapple slices, reserving 2 tablespoons juice.

Melt butter over medium heat in 10-inch iron or heavy oven-proof skillet. Add brown sugar, stirring until melted. Remove from heat.

Arrange 7 or 8 pineapple slices over sugar mixture, slightly overlapping slices around edge of pan if necessary. Fill centers with cherry halves, cut side up.

Combine flour, granulated sugar, baking powder and salt in medium bowl. Add shortening and milk and beat 2 minutes or until mixture is smooth. Add egg and reserved 2 tablespoons syrup and beat 2 minutes longer.

Gently spoon part of batter over ingredients in skillet, then carefully spread remaining batter into even layer without disturbing fruit. Bake at 350 degrees 40 to 45 minutes or until golden brown and surface of cake springs back when gently pressed with fingertips.

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Remove cake from oven, place on wire rack and allow to cool 5 minutes. Loosen cake around edge of skillet with small spatula. Place inverted serving platter over cake and turn both upside down. Shake gently, then remove skillet.

Cut cake into wedges and serve warm. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

368 calories; 307 mg sodium; 43 mg cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 61 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.29 gram fiber; 33% calories from fat.

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