On the Lamb

The best lamb used to come from Bart Ehman, who sold Sonoma baby lamb to only the top restaurants. But then Ehman deserted lamb in order to devote himself to Rocky the Range chicken. Now the best lamb comes from Cathy and Greg Hoyt, who grew Ehman’s natural lamb on 2,000 acres of mountain pasture.

“Most commercial lambs are the black-faced, Suffolk breed that weigh about 130 to 140 pounds before they are slaughtered. Their huge bodies have a lot of fat, which restaurants just end up trimming off,” explains Cathy Hoyt. “What we have done is raised a smaller, lighter breed of lamb with just enough fat for cover and flavor. So we have these round, tiny butterballs that are ready earlier (at about 4 to 5 months) and weigh only 85 to 100 pounds.”

Natural lamb is a seasonal product. The season usually stretches from April through July, and when the lamb is gone, it’s gone. A whole lamb (minimum 40 pounds) costs $140; a half lamb, $75; a quarter, $50; plus $7.50 for shipping. The lamb is cut and wrapped, frozen and then shipped in special insulated cartons. The Hoyts also offer a “restaurant cut” that’s ideal for larger gatherings: a whole leg (including shank and sirloin), full loin and rack portions.

This tender, succulent spring lamb is unlike the older lamb found in most markets. It’s also smaller: A leg of this tiny lamb is about half the size of the one you are accustomed to buying in the market. Which goes to show that good things do come in small packages.

Eagle Rock Gourmet Lamb

P.O. Box 241

Ukiah, Calif. 95482

(707) 462-6082

Check, money order or C.O.D.