DEFINITIVE : The Classic White Shirt

The timeless white shirt has covered the backs of pirates, poets, peasants and preppies, but today’s white-shirt aficionados may be the most demanding ever.

For instance, a buttonhole is definitely not just a buttonhole. The truly fine shirt has 164 stitches at these critical points.

The collar? Conservatives adore (and their opposites abhor) the traditional buttoned-down look. Others go for standard spread-point or tab collars.

Cuffs require several decisions. Cuff links or buttons? If buttons, one or two on each wrist? And do you want one on the sleeve placket?

Pockets, yes, but what kind? The outside patch or one sewn inside with a “slash” opening? Want a flap? With or without a button? How about an overlay design?

You’ll have to choose between the form-fitting European cut or the looser American traditional cut. And will that be in cotton, poly/cotton blend, linen, silk or rayon?

The Brooks Brothers classic has endeared itself to traditionalists for its consistent fit, high-quality fabric and long wear. The elegant Armani and Zegna shirts combine traditional fit with updated collars and cuffs. Hugo Boss treads the middle ground.