1991 Vaselli Orvieto Classico ($8) --Orvieto,...

1991 Vaselli Orvieto Classico ($8) --Orvieto, from the Trebbiano grape, once was a slightly sweet, relatively unctuous white wine. In the past decade, however, it has become a lean, delicate wine with a mild aroma and crisp taste. Vaselli offers both styles. The version designated as “Secco” is flinty, with faint citrus notes--a perfect match for lightly seasoned, unsauced seafood. The sweeter version, called “Amabile,” has a similar aroma but is perhaps a little fuller, with enough sweetness to match with richer food, such as pasta in creamed sauce.