DESIGNERS : Paris Changes Pace
Skirts are long, pants are plentiful, and the ‘70s are making a comeback this fall. At least that was the impression left by France’s fashion couturiers, who presented their fall collections this week.
The shows opened Sunday, just as the Tour de France cyclists swept up the Champs-Elysees to end their race.
Christian Lacroix opened the week with poetic fantasy wear. Fitted tweed jackets were trimmed with lace or sequins, and laced up the back in gold. They topped lean trousers or floppy, loose pants. The new skirt--narrow, knee-covering and clingy--turned up here, some versions in graceful trumpet shapes.
Valentino paid tribute to Marlene Dietrich, the late femme fatale, with a collection of body-hugging dresses, sharply tailored pantsuits and back-baring evening gowns reminiscent of the star’s sultry eroticism. Black velvet evening gowns fit like gloves, flaring abruptly at the knees or dipping low in the back with a fur trim.
Gianni Versace, the Milan-based showman, went for his usual glitzy spectacle with bell bottoms, plaid cowgirl dresses and leather bustiers decorated in nailheads. The master of the mini gave in to changing times with longer skirts. Most of them skin-tight jersey or leather.
One of the most intriguing shows of the season featured Robert Merloz, a new name at Yves Saint Laurent. The 26-year-old designer has crafted several fur collections for the house. This was his first full line of luxury ready-to-wear, not couture.
It was not a stunning beginning. The high-waisted jackets worked well. But most things were over-designed, with too many asymmetrical hemlines, floppy bustle effects and bows. And there is speculation that Merloz is being groomed to succeed Saint Laurent.
Not so, insists Pierre Berge, the company’s president. “We do not plan to replace Yves Saint Laurent for any reason. If he disappears, we’ll simply close the haute couture operation.”
Saint Laurent was said to be upset that his company backed Merloz’s line and there were rumors this week that he would not show at all. “He was indeed distressed,” his mother, Lucienne Saint Laurent, confirmed.
He presented a collection of 50 pieces, making this one of the shortest shows he has ever staged. Every piece reflected his extraordinary sense of color, from the ruby or royal-blue corduroy fitted jackets over short skirts to an evening jacket of sunflower gold satin and an emerald satin gown.
Pierre Cardin unveiled a series of mini-length tweed coats with toggles, ponchos with lavender fur trim and plaid smock dresses. And he announced that he will present only one haute couture and one ready-to-wear show per year from now on, not two as is expected.
At Christian Dior, designer Gianfranco Ferre showed both short and long lengths. The audience burst into instant applause at the sight of a short dress. Waist-cinching, with a full skirt, it was reminiscent of Dior’s original “new look” dress that overshadowed international fashion in the early ‘50s.
At Chanel, designer Karl Lagerfeld dyed classic Chanel suits fluorescent persimmon and brilliant violet. He added wings of ruffled organdy that brushed the floor, shredded lace ascots and gold chains that wrapped the waist and dangling to the knee. Emanuel Ungaro’s standouts were his tartan plaid combinations. He showed them in evening gowns as well as daytime slim pants and jackets.
Fashion trends evident at this season’s shows start with narrow, calf-length jersey skirts, which had a growing presence on both couture and ready-to-wear runways for the last two seasons.
Colors are muted. The most enthusiastic colorists, Lacroix and Ungaro, cut back on busy prints and fluorescent hues for fall, preferring maroon, chocolate and black. Platform shoes are the accessory of the season. They give the longer, narrow skirts a ‘90s look. Chanel and Lacroix are setting the standard--Chanel with matte suede sandals and pumps for day, Lacroix with decorative, gold platform mules for night.
