Worth Waiting For

Fortuna’s Deli, 140 Franklin St., Westerly, R. I. 02891. (401) 596-1883. Check or C.O.D.

Paul Stannard makes his dense, flavorful sausages in much the way other people make wine: by hand, in small batches, using only the very best ingredients. And like fine wine, he ages his product slowly, dry-curing it.

Stannard is particularly proud of his pepperoni. Unlike some commercial brands, which are made from meat scraps, his tangy sausage is made from lean pork and ground round, garlic and spices. His abruzze , cacciatorini and capicola are also wonderful.

But the deli’s most popular sausage is its smooth-textured soppressata. Made from extra-lean pork and spices and then cured naturally for more than three months, the pungent sausage comes in three degrees of hotness: sweet, hot and extra-hot (our favorite). Slice it thin, accompany it with a platter of bread and cheese, and then look out. A single slice packs a mean punch.

All sausages are $9.99 per pound plus shipping.