Pots of Peppers

Green peppers seem to have been ignored lately in favor of their costlier relatives--red, yellow, orange, purple, even chocolate-colored peppers. It’s true that the sweetness of red and yellow peppers makes them the first choice for serving raw or plainly grilled. Yet there are many ways to turn economical green peppers into delectable appetizers and side dishes. Among the best are pepper stews, which are popular in many European and Mediterranean countries.

Wonderful green pepper stews have been developed in Hungary, Morocco and the Basque regions of France and Spain. Slow cooking gives the green peppers an enticing rich taste and a tender texture that makes them appealing even to people who do not enjoy eating raw green peppers.

In all of these stews, the peppers are cooked with tomatoes, which provide moisture, an attractive color and a tangy-sweet flavor that complements the peppers. The Hungarian Pepper Stew, or Lecso, also contains sauteed onions; the Moroccan stew is accented with garlic; and the Basque stew, or Piperade, includes both.

Moroccan Pepper Stew tends to be the hottest, since fresh, hot peppers are added with a liberal hand. But the Basque and Hungarian stews can be highly seasoned too-- Piperade with dried hot peppers or pepper flakes, Lecso with hot paprika. But there’s no law stating that they must be hot; my sister-in-law, who is of Moroccan origin, often makes her pepper stew without hot peppers so it will appeal to the whole family, including the children.

Pepper stews are simple to make and have a multitude of uses. All make a light, tasty appetizer or salad when served cold or at room temperature with fresh bread or toast. Hot or cold, pepper stews are fine accompaniments for meats and fish--and they can play a double role as both vegetable and sauce.

Another time-honored use of pepper stews is as a cooking base, especially for putting together quick meals. All these stews are loved as a flavoring for scrambled eggs. Moroccan Pepper Stew might have eggs poached in it, while Piperade often becomes a filling for omelets. And though delicious meatless, these stews are often enhanced with meat, smoked or otherwise. Classic recipes for Lecso call for cooking the peppers with bacon and lard, and in Hungary, sliced sausages are added to make a hearty, satisfying supper. Basque Piperade might include Bayonne ham.

So central are these pepper stews to Hungarian and Basque cooking that they are available canned, for use when peppers are not in season. Throughout the year, the stews are used as a flavorful base to cook with chicken or meat, or to add zip to rice or potatoes.

Use pepper stews as terrific new toppings for pizza or as flavorful sauces for pasta. In fact, for a peppery change of pace, these pepper stews can replace tomato sauce in many of its traditional roles.

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This is an easy version of the classic pepper stew from the Basque region of southern France and northern Spain. Some versions call for roasting and peeling the peppers before sauteing them. This stew makes a delicious accompaniment for grilled or broiled chicken or lamb.

PIPERADE OR PIPERRADA (Basque Pepper Stew)

2 tablespoons oil

1 large onion, chopped

2 or 3 large green peppers, cored, seeded and cut into 1/4- to 1/2-inch dice

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 1/2 pounds ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

1/4 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Heat oil in deep skillet over low heat. Add onion and cook, stirring frequently, until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add green peppers and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until peppers become tender, about 7 minutes.

Add tomatoes, crushed hot pepper and salt and pepper to taste. Cook, uncovered, over medium heat, stirring often, until stew is thick, about 30 minutes. Adjust seasonings to taste. Makes 2 to 3 servings.

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This aromatic Moroccan stew is one of my favorite appetizers. It is made of sauteed green peppers that simmer gently with tomatoes, garlic and chiles. The garlic and hot peppers add sparkle but do not overwhelm the dish, as their flavors mellow during cooking.

MOROCCAN PEPPER STEW

5 tablespoons olive oil

4 large green peppers, cored, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice

3 pounds ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced, or 3 (28-ounce) cans plum tomatoes, drained and diced

Salt

3 to 4 jalapeno chiles, cored, seeded and finely diced

6 to 8 large cloves garlic, chopped

Heat 1/4 cup oil in large skillet over medium-low heat. Add green peppers and saute until tender, about 15 minutes. Remove peppers with slotted spoon.

Add tomatoes to oil. Season to taste with salt. Cook, uncovered, over medium-low heat until thickened, about 15 minutes. Add sauteed peppers, jalapenos and garlic and cook over low heat until peppers are tender and stew is thick, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Adjust seasonings to taste. Serve at room temperature. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

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This savory stew (pronounced “leh-cho”) is often made with pale green peppers, called Hungarian peppers, which cook a little faster than bell peppers, but I find that green bell peppers give an equally delicious result. For a quick supper, heat slices of Polish kielbasa sausage in the stew and serve it with crusty bread.

LECSO (Hungarian Pepper Stew)

2 tablespoons oil

1 medium onion, halved and thinly sliced

1 pound green bell or Hungarian peppers, cored, seeded and cut into lengthwise 1/2x2- to 3-inch-long strips

2 teaspoons paprika

3/4 pound ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Dash hot paprika or cayenne pepper, optional

Heat oil in medium skillet. Add onion and saute over medium-low heat until beginning to turn golden, about 5 minutes. Add peppers and saute, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes for Hungarian peppers or 15 minutes for bell peppers. Add paprika and saute 1 minute, stirring.

Add tomatoes and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until peppers are tender and mixture is thick, about 20 minutes. If there is too much liquid in pan, uncover and boil 1 to 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Adjust seasonings to taste, adding hot paprika. Makes 2 to 3 servings.