THEATER REVIEW / ‘BIG RIVER’ : In Twain’s Spirit : Huck Finn’s struggle to overcome racism and social tyranny is well played out in this musical production.

The never-healing wound of America’s troubled race relations fueled Mark Twain’s bitter wit to its most accomplished expression in his classic 1884 novel, “The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn,” a tale of two outcasts--one white and one black--fleeing the social tyrannies of the South.

Sadly, Twain’s insights into the divisions of prejudice remain as true as ever, as the recent eruption of smoldering rage in Los Angeles shows.

No surprise, then, that “Big River,” a 1985 musical adaptation of Twain’s classic novel by William Hauptman (book) and Roger Miller (music and lyrics), sounds Twain’s call to humanistic tolerance with such urgency in PCPA Theaterfest’s handsomely staged production at the Solvang Festival Theatre.

But “Big River” aims for more than social commentary. The issue of racism is set against the spectacular tapestry of river life as young Huck Finn (Andy Paterson) abandons his nightmarish life in St. Petersburg, Mo., for travel and adventure.

But striving for big-scale family entertainment while trying to make a hard-hitting moral statement creates an inner conflict in the production.

Where the author so masterfully evoked the sensibilities of his time and place, re-creating them on stage proves more problematic for director Paul Barnes. Many of the wry subtleties that brought life to the novel are obscured in exaggerated renderings that try to summarize the characters rather than illuminate them. The sequence showing Huck’s mistreatment by his homicidal alcoholic father (Jack Greenman), for example, is so stylized that it lapses into melodrama.

But in the more intimate scenes that bring the characters face to face with racism, poverty, and injustice, Barnes’ direction is brilliantly effective. Most of these involve Jim (Michael Kelly), the runaway slave who becomes Huck’s closest friend. Kelly’s stirring performance brings limitless dignity to Jim despite the physical and intellectual limitations imposed by the slave’s circumstances.

Among the large and accomplished cast, Skip Greer and Michael Fitzpatrick supply tremendous humor with a biting edge as a pair of swindlers. Kerry Neel evokes pathos as one of their scam victims, and Mark Larson brings the requisite cunning and mischief to his appearances as Tom Sawyer.

Lisa Moran’s scenic design--a modular assembly of wooden planks and movable raft configured into the wide range of locations--tops the list of first-rate production values, which include Judith A. Ryerson’s costumes, David Lee Cuthbert’s lighting and Jeff Mockus’ sound. Choreographer Karen Barbour keeps the show on an even keel, even through the rapids.

As Huck and Jim travel down river in their makeshift raft, most memorable are the scenes that drive home the anguish of slavery, all rendered with an intensity that cuts through the veneer of cozy river life.

True to Twain’s spirit, the show situates the source of racial divisiveness squarely in the realm of personal relations. A product of his time, Huck anguishes over his loyalty to Jim, which contradicts everything he’s been taught about right and wrong. He’s been brought up to think of blacks as property, after all.

In a remarkable and admirable test of character, Paterson’s Huck convincingly wrestles with the dilemma and ultimately sides with his own conscience, even if it means sending his soul to “the bad place.”

As in all rites of passage, Huck’s journey is more than geographical. He crosses an inner threshold that redefines his vision of human beings, and challenges all of us to do likewise.

Without this crucial step, “Big River” warns us in compelling terms, racism will continue to tear us apart.

Cynic though he was, Twain would have approved.

* WHERE AND WHEN

Performed through Sept. 20 at the Solvang Festival Theatre, Wednesdays through Sundays at 8:30 p.m. Tickets are $15 and $18 Fridays and Saturdays, $12 and $14 all other performances; up to two half-price children’s tickets may be purchased with each advance adult ticket. Call (800) 549-7272 for reservations or further information.