Sealer Under Bathroom Linoleum Might Keep Mold From Returning
Question: The linoleum we installed two years ago in our two bathrooms has developed gray stains that look as though they’re coming from underneath. The installer has said it’s mold caused by a rise in the ground water in our area, which has made the cement slab damp. What can be done to fix this?
R.C., Garden Grove
Answer: “What you’ll need to do is remove the linoleum, clean off any mold, then apply a sealer to the floor,” says Steve Hix of Aaron Anthony’s Floor Coverings in Buena Park. “Before applying the sealer, though, you or the person you hire for the job will have to do a calcium chloride moisture test to determine how much moisture is in the slab.
“Most floor manufacturers recommend that the test should show that the slab has no more than four pounds per 1,000-square feet to prevent moisture problems. Before buying and applying a sealer, you should speak with some professionals to find out the type of sealer they would use in your situation, since sealers tend to vary in quality and effectiveness,” he says.
“After the sealer is applied and dried, the moisture should be tested again to see if a new floor can be put down.”
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Q: We were out of town for a week and came home to find our garbage disposal wasn’t working. There is only a hum when the switch is turned on, and the blades seem frozen. I was able to get them moving by hand, but they won’t work when I flip the switch or push the reset button. Any suggestions?
C.G., Fountain Valley
A: “What often happens is that in the lack of use, a bearing on an older disposal might freeze and keep the motor from turning,” says Ted Blanke of Central Plumbing & Heating Co. in La Habra.
“A seal may not be working and a bit of moisture is getting through the top turntable area into the motor; this is usually the cause. There could also be some debris down in the motor that is causing it to jam. With the switch turned off, use the handle end of a broom to rotate the turntable, then remove it and switch it on. If this doesn’t work (after) a few times, it may be time to shop around for a new disposal.”
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Q: We’re recently bought a house with a screened-in patio and we’d like to give it a more “finished” look. We’ve heard that we should use carpet tiles rather than sections of carpeting for the floor because they’re easy to install and are more durable. Is that true?
R.Y., Santa Ana
A: “I wouldn’t recommend carpet tiles in that kind of application, due to the fact that a patio will probably see more moisture,” says Phil Tockey of Mike’s Carpet Emporium in Costa Mesa. “Carpet tiles have more edges exposed, and you’ll be more inclined to see buckling and other problems. You would have the same problem with vinyl tiles as well.
“I’d suggest taking a look at some of the indoor/outdoor carpeting on the market. There are some excellent indoor/outdoor carpets that looks as nice as indoor carpeting and will help you create the look you’re after.”
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Q: I live close to the freeway, and I’m having a noise problem from the five 15-foot windows in my living room. I’ve considered replacing them with glass blocks, which would reduce noise and let light get through, but the cost is prohibitive. Now I’m thinking about putting caulked storm windows up. Would this have any effect?
C.A., San Clemente
A: “Stopping noise from windows that size is going to be really tough, no matter what you do,” says contractor Bob Sands of Fullerton. “They tend to leak sound like a sieve. If the double-paned windows you have in there now are more than five years old, have them checked out to see if there are any air leaks. Replacing old windows may help.
“Storm windows could also help you get rid of some of the noise, but the key word is some. I think at best you’d be able to muffle 10% of it, which may not sound like a whole lot, but compared to what you’re living through, it could be a big difference.”
