TOOLS: Building the Basic Household Toolbox

For people who like to work on or around their house, the right tool for every job is not just a matter of necessity but also a matter of satisfaction.

What tools does a serious home handyperson need? A complete list of basic hand tools could be as bewildering as the hardware department of a home-improvement center.

And while the “right” assortment will vary from job to job, there are some basic tools that will serve in most situations. If you’re just getting started in building a basic toolbox, here’s a checklist of non-power hand tools that may provide some guidance.

Hammers. It helps to have a couple, in different weights--a 16-ounce for jobs that require smaller sizes of nails and a 22-ounce for framing, fences and other jobs requiring larger nails.

Nail sets. Have one or two, to countersink nail heads.

Nail pullers. Hammers have limited use as pullers, being confined largely to nails that are already sticking out. A “cat’s paw” puller can be driven under the nail head so you can yank the nail out. A small pry bar works well for extracting heavy nails, and can also be used to lift trim and other small pieces of material.

Screwdrivers. The best bet is a kit with a selection of slot heads and Phillips heads.

Pliers and wrenches. Pliers come in amazing variety, but a pair of small needle-nose pliers and a pair of larger blunt nose, or engineer’s, pliers will work for most home tasks. A set of simple, open-ended wrenches will fill most needs, though if you can find a good, relatively inexpensive one, a set of socket wrenches is great to have.

Saws. Unless you’re determined to do things the old-fashioned way, you probably don’t need a cross-cut saw. But a hacksaw is useful for cutting pipes or nails and a coping saw is essential if you’re going to fit curved molding.

Miter box. A simple wooden one will suffice for making angled cuts, on trim, for instance.

Hand plane. There are several different kinds but a simple block plane can trim, smooth and shave doors, molding, etc.

Chisels. A couple of sizes will do; they’re useful for mortising locks and hinges and splitting or shaving lumber.

Sawhorses. Nothing beats them for stability and flexibility, not to mention how handy they are for setting up a job-site picnic.

Tape measures. A 1-inch-wide metal tape, 20 or 25 feet long, is good for framing and general construction; a 3/4-inch-wide metal tape 12 or 16 feet long works for trim and finer tasks.

Levels. Ordinary bubble levels are fine; it’s nice to have a short one (2 feet) for small spaces and a long one (4 feet) for wider distances.

C-clamps. These are useful for holding boards together while you’re nailing, or for attaching a level to a 2-by-4 (which effectively extends the level to the length of the board).

Squares. A large, metal carpenter’s square helps in framing and stair-building; a combination square can be adjusted for a number of preset angles, and helps put a straight line on a board before you cut it.

Plumb bobs and other leveling, squaring devices. A line level is an inexpensive device that hangs on a string tightly stretched across a distance. It’s useful when you’re pouring footings or leveling a floor. A plumb bob can determine if a structure is truly vertical or if an object is right under a spot on the ceiling. A chalk line marks straight lines on surfaces, and is much easier to use (and more accurate) than a pencil and a yardstick.

Portable lights. One flashlight per floor is about the right number. Clip-on work lights that move around with the task are useful and inexpensive. Plenty of heavy-duty extension cords and a multiple outlet device with a fuse will make the most of limited electrical service.

Scrapers and cutters. Utility knives are so cheap and so useful every worker should have his or her own. Small scrapers are helpful for stripping old finishes and large ones may be the only device that will lift old floor tiles.

Wire brushes. A selection in various sizes helps strip intricate surfaces such as stair balusters or carved molding. Old toothbrushes are also good for very fine work. (And some people use dental tools to get out every speck of old finish.)

First-aid kit and other safety devices. Safety goggles, dust masks, gloves and heavy shoes will provide protection when you’re working. If you’re doing a lot of demolition, a hard hat is nice. If you plan to sand and refinish floors, ear protectors and kneepads will ease the strain. But you should always have a box of Band-Aids, just in case.

Finally, you’ll need someplace to store the tools and something to carry them around in. There are lots of toolboxes on the market, at all price ranges, but you really don’t need anything more elaborate than an empty joint-compound bucket, a plastic “milk-carton,” or a heavy canvas bag. Anything sturdy with a handle will do. There’s no substitute for a good tool belt, however; pockets just don’t hold up.