A Saucy Base : Tomatillos, a husked cousin to the tomato, are a staple of Mexican salsas.

Tucked in between the assortment of fresh chilies and peppers, your local grocer has probably placed a small offering of a roundish fruit, noticeable by its paper-bag-like covering.

Though it draws glances and is fondled by curious shoppers, the tomatillo for the most part remains unfamiliar to American palates. Those who have eaten tomatillos know this tomato relative is a leading player in Mexican salsas and sauces.

Once the dry, leafy, loose-fitting enclosure is peeled back, a cherry-tomato-like fruit is revealed, although the tomatillo is usually picked when firm and still green. It ranges from an inch in diameter to plum size, and is prized for its mild tartness and distinct flavor.

Traditionally the tomatillo is not used raw, said Oxnard grower Paz Trevino, though it can be chopped in salads, gazpacho or guacamole, even slivered for a sandwich embellishment. Mexican cuisine usually calls for it to be partially cooked, then pureed.

“Some people might be mistaken, but tomatillos are not hot,” Trevino said recently. “They provide the body for sauces and salsas and it’s up to you to make it hot or mild.” When cooked the fruit’s tartness mellows and its flavor stands up to all kinds of herbs and spices.

Tomatillo-based green sauce preparations are commonly used to simmer chicken, turkey, fish or vegetables. For salsas it’s combined with chili peppers, onion, garlic, cilantro and other optional seasonings to enliven tacos, huevos rancheros and more.

Tomatillos must be husked before preparing. The crackly husk is easily peeled off and the fruit should then be thoroughly rinsed to remove a sticky substance near the stem, which is also removed. The fruit can be cooked using one of two methods. You can poach gently until tender or roast unhusked tomatillos (at 450 degrees) for about 10 minutes.

Though Trevino said his tomatillo season was cut short this year because of field complications, the fruit, which grows on a short, bushy plant, is raised nearly year-round.

Very little of it, though, is grown in Ventura County, however. “I sell it at the farmers’ markets,” said Trevino, “but it doesn’t always do so well. A lot of people just aren’t familiar with it.”

To boost awareness, Trevino has resorted to giving out samples and suggests recipes.

“Once they try it, though, they come back for more.”

Trevino said that if you wait long enough after purchasing your tomatillos, you’re in for a real treat. “Pretty soon they will turn yellow and become very sweet. That’s when I eat them fresh.” Health conscious veggie lovers will be happy to know tomatillos provide a healthy dose of vitamins A, C and niacin and are low in calories.

Although not readily available at area farmers’ markets, Latino grocers will surely have abundant supplies and supermarkets will probably have a small amount in stock. Currently, the supermarket price is about $1.29 per pound.

You should choose firm, dry fruit with clean, close-fitting husks. Tomatillos should be hard when purchased and not give to pressure the way a tomato would. Husks should not show any mildew or blackness. Refrigerate unused tomatillos for up to two weeks or more.

SERVING SUGGESTION / GREEN SALSA

The following is a simple preparation for a tasty addition to tacos, enchiladas or your favorite Mexican dish that requires a green sauce.

10 tomatillos, husks removed

1 serrano or 2 jalapeno chilies, cut lengthwise and seeds removed boiling salted water

1/2 onion, finely diced

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons olive oil

salt

Drop tomatillos and serrano chilies in pot of boiling salted water. Cover and cook two minutes. Drain. Place tomatillos and chilies in food processor and puree. Strain mixture into bowl and discard skins. Add onion, cilantro, lemon juice and olive oil. Season to taste with salt. Chill before serving. Makes enough for six servings.

KITCHEN NOTES / COMPOSTING

The recycling office of the city of Ventura will conduct a free composting workshop Saturday at the Cornucopia Community Garden in Ventura.

Beginning at 10 a.m., participants will learn how to turn yard clippings, leaves and food scraps into a rich, fertile soil amendment. Preregistration is not required. The garden is on Telephone Road, a block east of Johnson Drive.

Several styles of compost bins will be available at below wholesale prices. For information, call the recycling office at 650-0884.