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Super-Soaking Stucco Problem Must Be Solved From the Ground Up

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Question: Two years ago we had our house painted, and along one wall we’ve found flaking and bubbling of the paint near the ground. We believe this is because of the high alkaline content of the soil. We’ll be building a deck in this area and would like to fix the problem. Any suggestions?

M.B.K.

Huntington Beach

Answer: “Often this is the result of excess moisture getting into old stucco,” says Allen Howell of Imperial Paint Supply in Anaheim. “We often see it in stucco that’s at least 25 years old.

“As it ages, stucco becomes porous, and water begins to soak up the wall through hydrostatic pressure. It may only go up about two or three feet, but it does blister away the paint.”

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“First, dig about a six-inch trough at the dirt level, then take a scraper or putty knife and get rid of all the loose paint. Then let it dry out before using a standard, paintable stucco patch. Let that fully dry, then paint it with your latex house paint.

“After this dries, you should select a good masonry sealer and with a simple insecticide sprayer, spray it evenly over the surface. This will protect it until it needs to be repainted again, five to seven years from now.”

Q: I recently had tile laid in my bathroom. Between the tile and the Berber carpeting, the tile is about a quarter-inch higher than the carpeting, even with the carpet strip. Everywhere else in the house the tile is about a quarter-inch lower than the carpet. How do I even this up?

B.A.

Irvine

A: “You may be able to install a beveled edge on the tile,” says Gloria Richey of Tile Importers in Anaheim. “This will make the difference between the tile and the carpet more gradual. You could also have a thicker tack strip put in at the carpet edge. This will raise the level of the carpeting at the door and give it a better appearance.”

Q: How can I remove a dark ring from around my fiberglass tub? I’ve used liquid soap, cleaners and detergents, but nothing works. Any ideas?

J.M.

Laguna Hills

A: “If you haven’t tried it already, mix a solution of water and vinegar and rub it into the stain,” says Steve Johnson of Familian Pipe and Supply in Costa Mesa. “There are a lot of commercial cleaners on the market, but I don’t think they do as good a job as this. Fiberglass tends to be porous, and it’s easily stained by hard water deposits. Whatever you do, don’t use harsh cleansers, which will permanently scratch the surface.”

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Q: We’re going to be putting a new floor in our bathroom, and we’ve been told that the original tiles have asbestos in them and the new floor should be placed over them. Will this create any future problems such as buckling or color transference?

C.L.C.

Fountain Valley

A: “This would be fine as long as the old tile is stable and provides a good base for the new floor,” says Terry Peterson of J & J Floor Coverings in Garden Grove. “The old tile should be a smooth, non-embossed surface, and if there is any buckling in the floor already, it will have to be addressed. The new, one-piece flooring should have an interflex installation system, which is glued down around the edges and is not a full spread.”

Handyman’s Note: In regard to a recent column on an easy-to-install bidet, S.G. of Anaheim recommends looking at one available by mail order through Hepp Industries, 687 Kildare Crescent, Seaford, N.Y., 11783. (212) 585-7756.

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