Rooting for Dinner

By ABBY MANDEL

Oct. 29, 1992 12 AM PT

The celery root is not much to look at. Occasionally, you may be lucky enough to find it with its long green stems and leaves still attached--it’s a beautiful vegetable in its totality. But, usually you’ll find the root with its leaves trimmed--leaving an ugly bulb, craggy and brown.

Popular in European cooking, but less known here, celery root (or celeriac) is a celery cultivated specifically for its root (although the leaves can be used as an herb). Completely different from the bunches of celery that we know so well, it has an intense celery taste with an edge of parsley.

Like many root vegetables, celery root stores well throughout the winter and is available until spring. But it’s best in late fall when it’s freshly harvested. It ranges in size from as small as an apple to as large as a medium cantaloupe. When possible, choose a medium-sized root, which has less waste than the small size and none of the bitterness that characterizes the very large size. It should feel firm and hard with no soft spots and a minimum of knobs and rootlets, which are ultimately discarded. Refrigerate celery root in a plastic food bag up to a week; it wilts and dries out after that period.

The trick to preparing celery root is to remove the peel with a very sharp knife so that there is little waste. Discard the tough peel in a garbage receptacle; it creates havoc in a disposal. A food processor slices and shreds celery root with quick and easy perfection. Otherwise, a firm serrated knife should be used for slicing it.

If you want the celery root to stay white after peeling, soak the peeled root briefly in lemon or vinegar water to prevent discoloration.

Here, the basic potato gratin formula is varied to include celery root, apples, raisins and curry. It would also be delicious without the curry and raisins, if you desire a more subtle, less dominant dish. Serve this gratin with roasted poultry, meats or game. It’s an obvious winner with baked ham. Use the processor (medium slicing disc) to slice all the ingredients. If you prefer less fat, substitute the same amount of 1% milk mixed with 1/4 cup dry nonfat milk for the milk.

CURRIED GRATIN OF CELERY ROOT, APPLES, POTATOES AND RAISINS

1 tablespoon oil

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1 large onion, sliced

2 tablespoons flour

2 1/4 cups milk

1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons curry powder

1 medium celery root, peeled, quartered and sliced

2 medium Golden Delicious apples, peeled and sliced

2 small russet potatoes, peeled and sliced

1/2 cup golden raisins

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground white pepper

Heat oil in 2-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and onion and saute until onion is tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in flour. Stir in milk and curry powder. Add celery root, apples and potatoes, separating any slices that stick together.

Cook mixture, uncovered, over medium heat until thick and slices are almost all tender, about 25 minutes, stirring often. Stir in raisins, salt and white pepper. Turn mixture into greased shallow 6-cup-capacity gratin or baking dish, smoothing surface. Cover with foil. (Can be stored overnight in refrigerator, covered airtight.)

Place on middle rack of 350-degree oven and bake, covered, 20 minutes. Uncover. Bake until lightly browned, about 30 to 35 minutes longer. Let stand 10 minutes before serving. Serve hot. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

179 calories; 468 mg sodium; 7 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 32 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.97 gram fiber.

Celery root is a natural with potatoes (try mashed potatoes and celery root for a simple and delicious dish). The dense puree of the celery root and nonfat dry milk give you that essential vichyssoise creaminess with the least amount of cream. The processor is invaluable in preparing this soup; it slices the vegetables and then purees them after they are cooked.

CELERY ROOT VICHYSSOISE

1 tablespoon oil

1 large onion, sliced

1 large leek, white part only (use trimmed green ends for other soups), split, washed and sliced

2 large red potatoes, peeled and sliced

1 medium celery root, peeled and sliced

6 cups chicken stock or broth

1/3 cup nonfat dry milk

2 to 4 tablespoons heavy whipping cream

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Salt

Freshly ground white pepper

2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives

Heat oil in 3-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add onion and leek and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Add potatoes, celery root and chicken stock. Bring to boil. Simmer, covered, until vegetables are very tender, about 40 minutes.

Strain vegetables from liquid, reserving both. Puree vegetables with nonfat dry milk in processor or blender until smooth. Add little reserved cooking liquid for smoother puree.

Stir puree into reserved liquid. (Soup can be strained at this point, if desired.) Add 2 tablespoons cream, adding more for desired creaminess. Add nutmeg and season to taste with salt and white pepper. Serve chilled or hot. Adjust seasonings to taste before serving. Garnish with chives. Makes about 8 (1-cup) servings.

Each serving contains about:

215 calories; 925 mg sodium; 9 mg cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 31 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 1.59 grams fiber.

Note: Soup can be refrigerated up to 3 days or frozen as long as 3 months.

Here, celery root is used as the base of a refreshing, light salad. Any leftover meat, cut into strips, can be substituted for the smoked turkey or hard sausage. Swiss cheese is a great addition as well. And, of course, it’s fine just by itself. As an added bonus, it’s even better the day after it’s mixed.

CHARCUTERIE CELERY ROOT SALAD

2 medium celery roots, peeled and shredded

4 medium carrots, peeled and shredded

1 sweet red pepper, cut into fine julienne

1/2 pound sliced smoked turkey or hard salami, cut into fine julienne

Dressing

Salt, pepper, optional

Combine celery roots, carrots, sweet red pepper and turkey in 2-quart bowl. Add Dressing. Toss well to combine.

Serve immediately or chill several hours, preferably overnight. Toss well just before serving and adjust salt and pepper to taste. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

265 calories; 910 mg sodium; 37 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 19 grams carbohydrates; 13 grams protein; 2 grams fiber.

Dressing