Do the Mashed Potato

When it comes to mashed potatoes, there is little consensus about what is correct. The best mashing utensil and the lump/no-lump question are matters of personal preference. But the type of potato you use for mashing does make a difference. Of the two basic varieties--waxy and mealy (sometimes termed non-waxy )--the latter is best suited for mashing because of its low sugar and high starch content.

Generally speaking, rely on the thick-skinned potatoes such as russets to be mealy. Select potatoes that are firm, free from large cuts, growth cracks and sprouting eyes. Avoid any with green-tinged skins.

Before being mashed, potatoes should either be boiled or steamed.

To Boil: In heavy saucepan with tight-fitting lid, cook potatoes in about 1 inch boiling, salted water until fork-tender. If whole, cook 30 to 40 minutes; cut-up, 20 to 25 minutes. (If lid doesn’t fit tightly, water may boil away; check occasionally and add more water if necessary.)

To Steam: Place wire rack on bottom of kettle or large saucepan and add water to just below level of rack. Bring water to boil, add potatoes and cook, tightly covered, until fork-tender. If whole, cook 30 to 45 minutes; cut-up, 20 to 30 minutes. (If lid is not tight-fitting, check occasionally to see if water should be added.)

Most people prefer to peel potatoes before cooking; however, this step can be done afterward or, when using a ricer, may be eliminated to save time. During boiling, chunks of mealy varieties tend to slough off, and the potatoes lose their shape. Once cooked, boiled potatoes should be drained well before mashing.

Milk, evaporated milk, half and half or cream may be used when mashing potatoes. Whatever the choice, the liquid should be heated; adding cold liquid cools the potatoes and tends to make them gummy.

The more liquid used, the creamier and thinner the end product. The amount needed also varies depending on the potatoes. Softened butter or margarine, salt and pepper are optional additions.

Use a potato masher, electric mixer or ricer to mash the potatoes. Here are techniques for using each device.

Potato Masher: Masher, fork or wire whisk may be used. Press tool into potatoes in downward motion, forcing through cutting grid. Gradually add milk, butter and salt and pepper to taste, beating with masher, fork or wire whisk until light and fluffy.

Electric Mixer: Begin by mashing potatoes slightly with stationary beaters. Turn mixer on low speed and whip to desired consistency, gradually adding milk, butter and salt and pepper to taste.

Ricer: Place boiled potatoes in perforated cylinder, then squeeze long handles together to force contents through ricer holes. Let rice-like pieces mound in serving dish. Gradually add milk, butter and salt and pepper to taste and beat potatoes with fork, spoon or wire whisk until light and fluffy.

Most sources agree that mashed potatoes are best served immediately. If they must be held, spoon into buttered casserole and smooth light film of cream over top. Keep warm in oven heated to 250 degrees. Another technique is to set pan of finished potatoes in larger one of hot water. Cover with towel to absorb steam.