Leaks Could Be Source of Mildew

Question: Our home, built in the 1950s, is about a mile from the Back Bay. It has a raised foundation, a stucco exterior and an insulated attic, but lately we’ve noticed mildew in the back of closets and also on the walls behind furniture and on the furniture itself. Would insulating underneath the house solve the problem?

E.P.M.

Newport Beach

Answer: “Before doing any kind of insulating, you’ll need to establish the cause of the mildew,” says Pete Gorman of Rancho Lumber and Building Supply in Westminster. “You need to crawl under the house and check the areas around the closets and walls where you’re having the mildew problem. You may see a black growth of mildew on the wood in that area.

“You could also have a leaking pipe that’s causing the problem, so look for any excess moisture underneath. If there’s no sign of mildew there, you should check your roof, since water could be leaking down into the walls.”

Q: Our 20-year-old home has synthetic marble sink tops in the bathrooms and over the years the marble has yellowed considerably. Is there a way to restore it or at least remove the yellow?

C.S.

Laguna Niguel

A: “Unfortunately, you’re probably not going to have much luck getting rid of yellowing,” says Valerie Christianson of Venetian Marble in Anaheim. “Over time, synthetic marbles tend to change color no matter what you use on them. Their average life span is about 20 to 30 years, and if you really can’t stand them, you’re going to have to replace them.

“For any other stains, be sure not to use an abrasive cleaner. There are gel-like cleaners available at most hardware stores that will keep the marble in shape.”

Q: My wife and I recently painted three rooms in our house and we’re having a problem with the finished work. Why is it that in the areas where we’ve “cut in” along the walls and ceiling to allow room for the roller, there’s a darker band of paint that appears as it dries? R.T.

San Clemente

A: “Many times the problem is caused when novices leave too much time between cutting and rolling,” says Tim Wiles of Decratrend in Anaheim. “You should keep a wet edge and roll up to what you’ve already cut while it’s still damp. This often happens when you’re working with a semi-gloss or satin finish.

“Another cause is overlapping the cut too much, so you end up with two coats around the edge of the wall, so it looks darker. Usually, a second coat of paint will solve the problem.”

Q: In the recent rains we found our gutters overflowing. Is there a way to increase their capacity without replacing them?

P.E.

Santa Ana

A: “You really can’t increase their capacity, but you can clean them out to make sure they’re operating up to their potential,” says roof repairman Walt Bridges of Huntington Beach.

“Get up on a ladder and take a trowel and a paper sack. If the gutters haven’t been cleaned for a while, they probably have dirt and sediment at the bottom like a stream bed. Shovel as much as you can into the bag. You may also find tennis balls, toys or other debris blocking the flow.

“Take a hose and run it down the downspout with the water on. If water is coming back up, you may need to dismantle the spout to get rid of the clog.

“Check also for leaking along the gutter. Most hardware stores sell patching compounds for galvanized and vinyl gutters and these will seal most small leaks. Of course, if you find you’re having to patch quite a few leaks, you may need to replace the gutters.”