Roasting Big Bird

To most Americans, “chicken” means a little bird, a 3-pound or 4-pound creature that can be quickly cooked. But roasters--especially free-range roasters--have recently started showing up in supermarkets, and if you end up as the proud owner of an 8-pound roasting chicken, you may be wondering what to do with it.

Someone recently gave me one of those awesome, gigantic, way-too-big-for-ordinary-life chickens. I asked half the neighborhood to a simple dinner and still ended up with leftovers.

I roasted the chicken, and some potatoes too. Salad, a nice red wine and a plum tart rounded out the meal. The reason “country” food is enjoying a renaissance is that it’s good. Easy too.

HERB-ROASTED BIG CHICKEN

1 (6-pound) roasting chicken

1 zested lemon, reserved from Herb Paste, white pith removed, flesh cut in quarters

Herb Paste

1 large leek, cut into 2-inch chunks

1 large carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped

Basil stems, reserved from Herb Paste

Parsley stems, reserved from Herb Paste

1 tablespoon butter, softened

Salt, pepper

Flour

Olive oil

1/2 cup vermouth

Wipe chicken inside and out with paper towels. Cut away any lumps of fat, then rub inside of bird with 1 lemon quarter.

Working fingers inward from both ends of bird, loosen as much of skin from flesh as possible. (It sticks to back but will pry away easily from breast and thighs.) Stuff Herb Paste under loosened skin. Smear any leftover paste inside body cavity.

Mix leek, carrot, basil and parsley stems and 3 lemon quarters, then stuff chicken cavity with mixture. Rub skin with softened butter. Season skin lightly with salt and pepper. Then sprinkle lightly with flour. Rub in flour until no white shows.

Oil shallow roasting pan just large enough to hold bird. Place bird in pan, breast-side up, and pour vermouth around bird (not over). Bake at 425 degrees 30 minutes, then lower heat to 350 degrees and cook about 1 1/2 hours longer (total cooking time should be 20 minutes per pound).

Let chicken stand in warm place 20 minutes before carving. Serve with pan juices. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

645 calories; 345 mg sodium; 213 mg cholesterol; 49 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 45 grams protein; 0.49 gram fiber.

Herb Paste

1 lemon

2 cups basil, firmly packed

2 cups parsley, firmly packed

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried

1 tablespoon chopped fresh winter savory, or 1 teaspoon dried

4 large cloves garlic

1/2 cup butter, softened

Remove zest from lemon and reserve lemon for stuffing. Separate leaves from basil and parsley stems and reserve stems for stuffing.

Finely mince zest, basil leaves, parsley leaves, thyme, savory and garlic. Beat in butter and set aside.

ROASTED POTATOES IN OLIVE OIL AND SALT

Waxy (boiling) potatoes, not starchy russets

Olive oil

Coarse salt

For small new potatoes, leave whole. If larger than golf balls, halve or quarter.

Spread potatoes in single layer in shallow baking pan or casserole. Drizzle generously with olive oil to taste. Sprinkle generously with coarse salt to taste, rolling them around until all are coated. Let stand at least 1 hour.

Bake at 350 degrees, shaking pan occasionally, until potatoes are slightly crusty and very tender, about 1 1/2 hours. For faster cooking, bake at 400 degrees about 40 minutes or until done.

Each potato contains about:

339 calories; 1,187 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 51 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 1.33 grams fiber.