Furnace Takes Its Time to Warm Up, and Thermostat May Be to Blame

Question: We have a gas forced-air furnace that’s about 17 years old and we’ve had trouble-free service from it. But lately, after I turn the thermostat up, it takes about 10 to 15 minutes before turning on. Should I be looking for a problem in the thermostat or is there something wrong with the furnace?

R.E.

Irvine

Answer: “It sounds as though the problem is in the thermostat or in the furnace’s fan control,” says Rod Albright of Albright Plumbing and Heating Supplies Inc. in Los Alamitos. “When you hear the ‘click’ after turning the thermostat, that’s the burner coming on. When the fire box reaches the right temperature, the fan control kicks the fan on and the warm air is circulated. If you’re not hearing a click, the problem may be in the thermostat, but if there is a click, it could be a faulty fan control.”

Q: We have a 1970 tract home with the typical dark wood kitchen cabinets installed at that time. They’ve become nicked, scratched and stained over time, although the finish is otherwise in fair to good condition. I’ve tried products that claim to restore wood finishes, but they haven’t worked. What can I do besides stripping and refinishing them?

J.W.

Santa Ana

A: “Unfortunately, most of those quick restoration products don’t work on large-scale projects,” says Bob Espeland of Espeland Furniture Repair and Antique Restoration in Orange. “If you don’t want to strip and refinish them, you can try using a wipe-on penetrating stain that has a sealer added to it, available at most hardware stores. Try to select a color that’s as close as possible to the stain that’s on there now.

“Before starting, wash the cabinets down to remove any grime or wax buildup. While wearing gloves, dip some cloth into the stain and apply it to the wood, then take a clean cloth and immediately wipe it down with the grain. After it dries, you can try using some household furniture wax on it to bring back the sheen. If that doesn’t work, you might look for a product by Benchmark called Finish Bomb.

“This is a spray, and you’ll need to turn off the pilot light on your gas range and extinguish any other flames when using it. After applying it, rub it down with extra fine steel wool, then apply a coat of satin finish sealer.”

Q: I’ve always heard bad things about using manufactured fire logs in my fireplace. But not having to start and stoke a fire repeatedly during the evening appeals to me. On some of the fire-log labels, they claim to be cleaner than firewood. Is that the case?

D.S.

Brea

A: “If it has any paraffin products, these will burn and stick to the lining of the flue,” says Dennis Katsis of Yorba Linda Patio and Hearth. “I’ve never heard of a fire log that doesn’t use paraffin or wax. Essentially, you’re burning a large candle in the fireplace and the leftover residue stays in there.”

Q: I’m going to be painting some chairs that have intricate designs in the arms and legs. I’m afraid that the paint is going to cover up some of the woodwork. How can I do the job without losing any of the designs? They’re bare wood and they must be primed first.

F.H.

Garden Grove

A: “First of all, make sure the wood surface, especially in the arms and legs, is smooth,” says painter Rob Wilson of Santa Ana. “If it’s textured, the paint may have a tendency to glob on. From there, you’ll just have to be patient and use brushes small enough to paint the designs evenly. Many novices also make the mistake of putting too much paint on their brush, which will give you an uneven look.”