BAJA WINE : Quail Eggs and Cactus

In what wine region can you dine on French onion soup, oursins (sea urchins), Chateaubriand and creme caramel ? Guess Bordeaux or Burgundy, and you’d probably be right. But where could you also eat stuffed chiles in nut sauce, eggs scrambled with cactus, and guavas so fragrant you sense the flavor without even tasting them? This narrows the answer to one place--northern Baja California. Food here ranges from age-old Indian dishes to French classics to contemporary innovations such as pasta in a sauce of huitlacoche (corn fungus), red wine and olive oil. This tantalizing blend of cuisines is a great attraction, and Baja’s wine industry is cashing in on it. When the Wine Brotherhood of Baja California staged a dinner showcasing the region, the menu was French-Mexican. Quail eggs broken over sea urchins formed random patterns when baked. This was the appetizer. Then came lobster bisque decorated with puff pastry, fish in wine sauce accompanied by a roe mixture resembling rouille and chicken in red wine. A Frenchman who grows specialty lettuces near Ensenada provided the salad greens. Cheese made in the hills outside town went into puffs modeled on the Burgundian specialty gougere. And carob from a commercial grove in the Guadalupe Valley flavored cream-filled pastries. Instead of truffles or mints, the diners finished with candied Mexican limes. At home--or in their wineries--people tend to eat food that is more rustic, but no less impressive. At the hacienda-style Vides del Guadalupe, the winery where Domecq wines are made, Luis A. Cetto sits down to eat in a large, bare room whose windows look out over the vineyards. A recent lunch began with sliced cheese, ham and salami that had been “imported” from San Diego. But toasted French bread came from a Baja bakery, La Baguette. On other platters, avocado and tomato wedges sat spoke-fashion around rajas (green chile strips). Real fajitas-- strips of grilled steak without fancy seasonings--and grilled quail came next along with lettuce salad. Fresh guavas, soft dates and Mexican-produced El Marino coffee ended lunch. Here in Ensenada, where two wineries are located, the feasting begins at breakfast time. Instead of coffee and croissants, you’ll stoke up on eggs scrambled with abalone chorizo (a shellfish version of the Mexican sausage), nopalitos (diced cactus) or shredded sun-dried beef from Sonora. Alongside, there’ll be tortillas, salsa and refried beans so good you could be satisfied eating those alone. The orange juice will probably be freshly squeezed. And the coffee will be Mexican grown. For lunch, try chiles en nogada at El Campanario in the Hotel Mision Santa Isabel. It’s an intriguing dish of poblano chiles stuffed with meat, fruit and nuts and smothered with creamy nut sauce. Dinner should be fish fresh off the boat. At restaurant Punta Morro, where waves crash just outside, you might have swordfish in white wine sauce and Chardonnay from a cellar cooled by the sea. Fresh herbs and vegetables for the kitchen come from the restaurant’s own garden in San Antonio de Las Minas. Later, join the crowd bunched around Tacos El Norteno, a stand where carne asada tacos are whipped together with astonishing speed. It’s on a side street a few blocks from the famous Hussong’s cantina . To dine with the winery set, reserve a table at El Rey Sol, an old-time French restaurant in the center of town. That’s where the Wine Brotherhood held its regional dinner. In a country-French setting that leans toward the ornate, you could have French onion soup, Chateaubriand bouquetiere , mushrooms a la Provencale , and a plate of Camembert and Brie. But if you want creme caramel , ask for it by its familiar Spanish name, flan. El Rey Sol serves a few Mexican dishes, such as Swiss enchiladas and chicken chipotle. But its real specialty is seafood. Winemakers who know the kitchen well might order delicate crab crepes, mixed seafood soup and a plate combining small portions of salmon, shrimp and scallops.

The food is served with great style. Sorbet between courses comes in frou-frou glass calla lilies that upstage the contents. Dessert is a real show if you choose a flameado ( flambe ). After the fireworks, you would get something like vanilla ice cream surrounded by figs and topped with a luscious sauce of brown sugar, wine, rum and fig puree. The restaurant bakes its own breads. They’re all wonderful, especially the almond croissants topped with sheer sweet glaze that are served for breakfast. An extensive cellar makes it possible to taste the best Baja wines, including older vintages. As El Rey Sol’s menu translates the old French saying, “ Una buena comida sin vino es como un dia sin sol “-- “A great meal without wine is like a day without sun.” Food is so important in Ensenada that the winery Cavas Valmar has introduced a wine cooking contest. A paella competition highlights the regional wine festival in July. And two of the region’s six wineries, Bodegas de Santo Tomas and Vinicola L.A. Cetto, are installing restaurants. Here are the top three winners in last year’s cooking contest at Cavas Valmar. Swordfish kebabs won first prize, a casserole of tuna in puff pastry was second and swordfish medallions in white wine came in third. Rebeca Mungaray’s first prize swordfish recipe can be cooked on a stovetop grill as well as a barbecue.

BROCHETA DE PEZ ESPADA AL VINO BLANCO (Swordfish Kebabs With White Wine) 1 pound swordfish steaks 2 medium tomatoes, cut in wedges 1 large onion, halved, cut into wedges 2 sweet red or green peppers, cut into squares 6 slices bacon, cooked, cut into squares 1/2 cup olive oil 1/2 cup dry white wine Salt, pepper Cut swordfish into 2-inch cubes. Combine swordfish, tomatoes, onion, peppers and bacon with olive oil, wine and salt and pepper to taste. Let marinate at room temperature 10 minutes. Drain, reserving marinade. Alternate swordfish, tomatoes, onion, peppers and bacon on skewers. Cook on grill or barbecue about 5 minutes on each side. Baste with reserved marinade while cooking. Makes 6 servings. Each serving contains about: 393 calories; 275 mg sodium; 38 mg cholesterol; 34 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 15 grams protein; 0.49 gram fiber. That old standby tuna casserole is upgraded with wine and puff pastry in this recipe created by Lety Jaber for the Cavas Valmar cooking contest.

HOJALDRE DE ATUN (Tuna Casserole in Puff Pastry) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 green pepper, chopped 4 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped 4 (6 1/8-ounce) cans tuna packed in oil, drained 1 (6-ounce) can black olives 3 tablespoons drained capers Salt, pepper 1/4 cup white wine 1 (1-pound 1 1/4-ounce) package puff pastry sheets 1 egg, beaten Pour olive oil into skillet. Add onion and garlic and saute until onion is tender. Add green pepper and cook few more minutes. Add tomatoes, tuna, olives and capers and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook 5 minutes. Stir in wine. Cook until liquid has evaporated. Cool completely. Cut 1 sheet puff pastry in half lengthwise. Reserve remaining sheet for other use. Line 13x9-inch glass baking dish with 1 pastry half. Add tuna mixture in even layer. Cover with remaining puff pastry. Make slits in top and brush with beaten egg. Bake at 350 degrees until golden brown, 30 minutes. Makes 8 servings. Each serving contains about: 489 calories; 923 mg sodium; 42 mg cholesterol; 26 grams fat; 22 grams carbohydrates; 30 grams protein; 0.55 gram fiber. Asparagus season, now getting under way, is the perfect time to try Jorge Roman’s swordfish dish. Third prize winner in the Cavas Valmar cooking contest, it’s accompanied by a salad of tomatoes, avocado and asparagus.

MEDALLONES DE PEZ ESPADA AL VINO BLANCO (Swordfish Medallions With White Wine) 1/2 cup olive oil 1/2 cup dry white wine Juice 1 lime Salt, pepper 4 (6- to 8-ounce) swordfish steaks 4 slices bacon, cooked to soften Asparagus Salad Combine oil, wine and lime juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Press swordfish steaks into rounds. Brush oil mixture on both sides and marinate 10 minutes. Wrap each medallion with bacon slice and fasten with wood pick. Cook 3 to 5 minutes on each side on griddle or barbecue grill. Serve with Asparagus Salad on side. Makes 4 servings. Each serving contains about: 600 calories; 454 mg sodium; 68 mg cholesterol; 40 grams fat; 21 grams carbohydrates; 41 grams protein; 4.20 grams fiber. Asparagus Salad 1/4 cup red wine vinegar Salt, pepper Juice 1 lime 1 teaspoon fines herbes 3/4 cup olive oil 2 large tomatoes, peeled and cut in small dice 1 medium avocado, peeled and cut in small dice 24 asparagus spears, cooked and cut into 2-inch lengths 1 cup chopped seaweed, optional Combine vinegar and salt and pepper to taste and mix well. Stir in lime juice and fines herbes. Gradually beat in olive oil. Let stand while preparing salad. Combine tomatoes and avocado in bowl. Add asparagus and seaweed. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add dressing and mix lightly. Keep at room temperature. Note: Seaweed is available in most Japanese markets. If salted, rinse well before using. Fines herbes is a mixture of dried herbs that can be found in most spice sections. Simple seasonings play up the flavor of fresh local swordfish served at Punto Morro restaurant, Ensenada.

GRILLED SWORDFISH STEAKS 2 pounds swordfish steaks Seasoned salt Flour Peanut oil 1/2 cup dry white wine 2 tablespoons capers 1/2 cup butter Season swordfish steaks to taste with seasoned salt. Sprinkle with flour to barely coat. Place fish on oiled grill and cook 4 to 5 minutes on each side, depending on thickness. Remove to platter and keep warm. Combine wine and capers in skillet. Boil 2 to 3 minutes. Add butter and lower heat. Place each grilled swordfish steak in butter mixture and spoon sauce over to coat well. Drain and place on individual plates. Makes 4 large servings. Each serving contains about: 412 calories; 961 mg sodium; 101 mg cholesterol; 26 grams fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 36 grams protein; 0.01 gram fiber. Two kinds of wine season this sophisticated chicken dish from restaurant Punta Morro.

CHICKEN MARSALA 2 chicken breast halves, boned and skinned Seasoned salt Flour 3 tablespoons peanut oil 3/4 cup Marsala wine 1/4 cup white wine 3 medium mushrooms, sliced 1 green onion, finely chopped 1/2 cup butter Sprinkle chicken breasts lightly with seasoned salt to taste, then flour to barely coat. Heat oil in oven-proof skillet. Add chicken breasts and brown lightly. Turn and lightly brown other side. Drain excess fat. Add 1/2 cup Marsala and ignite with lighted match. When flames subside, place skillet in 375-degree oven 10 minutes. Remove chicken and place on 2 dinner plates. Keep warm. In same skillet combine white wine, mushrooms, green onion and remaining 1/4 cup Marsala. Simmer 2 to 3 minutes. Add butter and cook, stirring, until creamy but not separated. Pour sauce over chicken on each plate. Makes 2 servings. Each serving contains about: 818 calories; 1,713 mg sodium; 185 mg cholesterol; 75 grams fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 21 grams protein; 0.10 gram fiber. Red wine and mushrooms are a great team, as this recipe from Punta Morro demonstrates. It’s very rich, so small servings are sufficient.

MUSHROOMS IN WINE SAUCE 2 dozen mushrooms, sliced 6 cloves garlic, chopped 3 tablespoons oil 1/2 cup Cabernet Sauvignon 4 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 1/2 cup butter Chopped parsley Saute mushroom and garlic in oil until mushrooms are tender. Add wine and Worcestershire and cook until mushrooms are tender. Add butter and cook until blended. Serve sprinkled with parsley to taste. Makes 4 servings. Each serving contains about: 328 calories; 317 mg sodium; 62 mg cholesterol; 34 grams fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.34 gram fiber. Tableside preparation adds drama to this wonderful dessert from El Rey Sol, an Ensenada restaurant popular with the region’s winemakers.

ICE CREAM WITH FIG SAUCE 2/3 cup light-brown sugar, packed 10 small fresh black figs, halved lengthwise 3/4 cup light rum 1 cup white wine 4 scoops vanilla ice cream Melt brown sugar in chafing dish or large skillet over moderate heat. Do not allow to burn. Add fig halves in single layer and heat. Add rum, heat and ignite with lighted match. When rum burns off, add white wine. Using 2 forks, smash 4 fig halves to work into sauce. Leave remaining fig halves intact. Cover and cook until figs are tender. Lift out fig halves and place on platter. Continue to cook sauce until syrupy, mashing remaining figs into finest puree possible. Place scoop of ice cream in center of each dessert plate. Place 4 fig halves spoke-fashion around each scoop. Spoon some of sauce over ice cream. Makes 4 servings. Each serving contains about: 400 calories; 69 mg sodium; 9 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 60 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.60 gram fiber.