Wine of the Week

1990 Dunnewood Merlot ($7)-- When Dunnewood was first introduced in the mid-1980s, it was a high-volume wine geared for the $4 to $5 per bottle price range. Now, under new ownership, Dunnewood has gone upscale, with smaller production. This wine--a blend of grapes from Sonoma County (for fruitiness) and Mendocino (for nuances of tea and spice)--is deeply flavored and tasty with good balance. Merlot is supposed to be accessible and this one really is. The move to improve the Dunnewood line also has made for an attractive Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon; a 1992 Limited Selection Chardonnay ($8.50), to be released soon, is also a good value.