Prince of Peas

French chefs often refer to “noble” vegetables. This classy group includs asparagus, artichokes, wild mushrooms and haricots verts, all time-honored accompaniments for luxurious meats.

Today, there’s a new American member that is qualified to join this exclusive club: sugar snap peas.

A cross between green peas and snow peas, sugar snap peas combine the best of both--the sweetness of green peas with the crispness and ease of preparation of snow peas. Sugar snap peas are plumper and more substantial than the flat snow peas and have a sweeter, almost buttery taste. Because of their attractive shape and brilliant green color, they add a festive note to any dinner plate.

Sugar snap peas appeared on our produce shelves a little over a decade ago. In just a few years, these novel peas have become a standard item in fine markets, and in some areas they are available all year--fresh, frozen and in microwaveable trays. They seem to have displaced green peas in my neighborhood markets, undoubtedly because they involve so little effort in the kitchen--you eat the whole thing, peas and pod.

One attraction of sugar snaps is that they don’t take long to cook. (In fact, if you cook them a long time they’ll lose their lovely crisp texture and turn mushy.) Basically, you treat them like green beans--steaming, boiling, sauteing or frying--but only for about two or three minutes. They can actually be eaten raw as a snack or with a dip, but they have a better flavor when cooked.

These edible-podded peas taste good when simply prepared and lightly seasoned. I love to serve them with duck, chicken, lamb, veal, salmon, sea bass and shrimp. For a delicious vegetarian main course, you can combine the peas with other vegetables and serve them with rice, couscous or bulgur wheat.

Because sugar snap peas are a new vegetable, they are not part of any national culinary repertoire. For inspiration on how to cook them, I imagine them in dishes originally designed for snow peas, green peas, green beans or asparagus. I found that, like snow peas, they’re great with Chinese seasonings, especially ginger. Like green peas, they go well with shallots, baby onions and mint. They make good company for carrots, yellow squash or sweet red or yellow peppers.

Since sugar snap peas first appeared, their price has come down considerably. Although they are not yet an inexpensive vegetable, they are quite reasonable at the peak of their season--in late spring and summer. And there is almost no waste. You just snap off the ends and, if there are any strings, you pull them off with the ends.

Choose sugar snap peas that are bright green, firm and plump. You can keep them up to four days in a plastic food bag in the refrigerator, but they are best when cooked as soon as possible.

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This is a new adaptation of a French recipe, in which cooked green peas are tossed briefly with shallot-scented mushrooms. It is an elegant dish for a special occasion. I like to serve the sugar snap peas as a partner for wild rice and soft-shell crabs.

SUGAR SNAP PEAS WITH SAUTEED MUSHROOMS 1/2 pound sugar snap peas, rinsed, ends removed 1 tablespoon olive oil 1/2 pound large mushrooms, halved and cut into thick slices Salt Freshly ground pepper 1 small shallot, chopped

Add peas to medium saucepan of boiling salted water and boil, uncovered, over high heat until tender-crisp, about 3 minutes. Drain in colander. Rinse with cold water and drain well.

Heat oil in heavy medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and season to taste with salt and pepper. Saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Add shallot and saute about 30 seconds. Add peas. Saute over medium heat until heated through, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Serve hot. Makes 2 to 4 servings.

Each serving contains about: 139 calories; 157 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 15 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 3.71 grams fiber.

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This easy dish could be called a stir-fry or quick braise. The vegetables are sauteed, then finish cooking with a little liquid. Since little oil is used, choose a heavy pan so the peppers don’t burn. Serve this colorful dish as soon as possible so the sugar snap peas remain bright green.

SUGAR SNAP PEAS WITH RED PEPPER AND GARLIC 1 sweet red pepper 1 tablespoon olive oil 1/2 pound sugar snap peas, rinsed, ends removed 2 large cloves garlic, minced 1/2 teaspoon thyme leaves 2 tablespoons water Salt Freshly ground pepper

Core red pepper and cut into strips about 1/2 inch wide and 2 inches long.

Heat oil in heavy medium saute pan over medium heat. Add pepper strips and saute until nearly tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Add sugar snap peas, garlic and thyme and toss over heat few seconds.

Add water and cook, tightly covered, over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally until peas are tender-crisp, about 3 minutes. If excess water remains in pan, uncover and cook few seconds to evaporate water. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately. Makes 2 servings.

Each serving contains about: 122 calories; 154 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 3.06 grams fiber.

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Here is a new twist on a familiar pair--green peas with baby onions. It’s delicious with chicken or turkey.

SUGAR SNAP PEAS WITH PEARL ONIONS AND GINGER 1 pound sugar snap peas, rinsed, ends removed 1/2 pound pearl onions, unpeeled 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons oil 3/4 teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon finely grated ginger root Salt Freshly ground pepper

Add peas to large saucepan of boiling salted water and boil, uncovered, over high heat until tender-crisp, 3 minutes. Drain in colander. Rinse with cold water and drain well.

Add onions to pan of boiling salted water and boil until just tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain. Rinse with cold water and drain well. Peel onions with paring knife.

Heat oil in heavy skillet. Add onions and saute over low heat 1 minute. Sprinkle onions with sugar and saute 1 minute, shaking pan often. Stir in ginger root, peas and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook over low heat until peas are heated through, about 30 seconds. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about: 118 calories; 80 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 3.19 grams fiber.

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This simple saute makes a colorful accompaniment for grilled or roasted meats or a main course with rice. A heavy saute pan is the easiest to use because it’s suitable both for cooking the carrots and peas and for sauteing the squash.

SUGAR SNAP PEAS WITH YELLOW SQUASH AND CARROTS 4 ounces medium carrots 2 small yellow crookneck squash 1/2 pound sugar snap peas, rinsed, ends removed 1 tablespoon oil 1 medium shallot, chopped 1 teaspoon raspberry vinegar, optional Salt Freshly ground pepper

Cut carrots into 2-inch lengths and quarter each piece lengthwise. Quarter neck of each squash lengthwise. Cut rest of squash into pieces same size as carrots.

Place carrots in heavy medium saute pan with 2 cups water and bring to boil. Cover and simmer until just tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove carrots with slotted spoon.

Add 1 cup water to liquid in pan and return to boil. Add sugar snap peas and boil, uncovered, over high heat until tender-crisp, 3 minutes. Drain in colander. Rinse with cold water and drain well.

Heat oil in saute pan over medium-high heat. Add squash and saute, stirring often, until tender-crisp, 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium. Add shallot and saute few seconds. Add sugar snap peas and carrots and heat through, tossing gently. Sprinkle with vinegar. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot. Makes 3 or 4 side dish servings, or 2 main course servings with rice.

Each serving contains about: 107 calories; 117 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 2.78 grams fiber.