The Razor’s Edge: How to Shave Safely

Skin types and conditions make shaving a particularly individual act. And, while determining what is best for your face may still be partly trial and error, skin health shouldn’t be left to the whims of fate. In fact, a little information and historical knowledge will save the newly-shaving from some unkind cuts.

Choosing the Right Tool

Disposable razor: Throw away when cutting edge becomes dull or rusted.

Electric razor: Razor’s cutting head clips hair on top of skin; shaving head can be adjusted to trim sideburns and beards; cutting head must occasionally be cleaned and sharpened.

Razor: Single- or double-edged; made of stainless steel; to prolong sharpness, edges should be coated with chromium, Teflon or platinum; replace blade when dull.

Blade injector: Comes with built-in replacement blades.

Preventing Ingrown Hairs

When a whisker goes bad, an ingrown hair may be the result. The free-growing end of a hair penetrates the skin near the follicle and the result can be just as painful as the medical name--Pseudofolliculitis barbae--suggests. The problem is most prevalent among those with coarse, curly hair. Although more common with electric shavers, improper blade use also can cause ingrown hair. To help prevent ingrown hairs:

* Change razor: If you’re using an electric razor, switch to a standard blade.

* Use a sharp blade: A dull one is more likely to leave rough edges that can grow back into the skin.

* Shave with the grain: Cutting against normal beard growth clips shafts beneath the skin surface, giving hair tips a chance to curl back and grow under the skin.

Hair Essentials

* Hair grows at a rate of about 0.016 inch a day.

* A man will spend about 150 days during 55 years of his life shaving.

* During a lifetime, a typical man will shave off 28 feet of whiskers.

* Whiskers are longest between 8 a.m. and 1 p.m.

Smooth Legs, No Nicks

Except for the length of the stroke, shaving a leg isn’t any different than shaving a face.

1) Lather legs with a moisturizing soap or shaving cream.

2) Starting at the top of the ankle, shave calf or shin. Work completely around the leg, using smooth, straight strokes and rinsing blade often.

3) Shave kneecap and surrounding area; it isn’t necessary to shave above the knee, unless desired.

4) Moisture legs afterward.

Blade Shaving

1) Thoroughly soak beard in hot water for at least two minutes. Keep whiskers wet while shaving. For best results, shave while showering.

2) Sensitive skin? Stroke with the grain of hair growth.

3) For a very close shave, hold skin taut and shave against the grain.

4) After shaving, rinse and pat face dry with soft towel.

5) Thoroughly rinse blade clean; shake dry.

Skin Concerns

* Oily skin: Shaving soaps or lathering shaves flush away oils better than brushless creams.

* Dry or soap-sensitive skin: Use brushless creams or aerosols. Both are oil-and-water emulsions with a chemical balance close to that of the skin.

* Cuts and nicks: Treat with a styptic pencil; key ingredient is aluminum salt, which immediately stops bleeding.

* Severe shaving rash: Rub cortisone cream on the affected area before and after shaving.

* Dealing with acne: To prevent soreness, stroke the razor with the grain of hair growth, not against it.

* Herpes-infected areas: Shaving over them will not spread the virus, but will cause soreness.

* Facial warts: Do not shave over them; the virus can spread. Wash face often with a drying cleanser specifically developed for treating warts. Begin shaving when condition clears.

Shaving and Sex Appeal

* The good news: Sex life does affect whisker growth.

* The bad news: Anticipation of sex actually boosts hormone levels.

* Translation: Facial hair grows faster after prolonged abstinence. Therefore, continuous sexual activity will slow whisker growth rate. Fatigue, tension and heavy drinking accelerate hair growth, while vigorous physical exercise decreases it. Further evidence of needing a shave: In a recent survey, nine out of 10 women indicated a preference for clean-shaven men.

Close Shaves with History

Prehistory: Cave drawings indicate man uses clam shells or animal teeth to scrape his beard.

3100 B.C.: Egyptians scrape off facial hair with bronze knives.

100 B.C.: Roman legionnaires grind whiskers smooth with pumice stone.

1762: French master cutler Jean-Jacques Perret creates first safety blade.

1903: Gillette introduces disposable double-edged blade, which is popularized during WWI.

1931: Electric shaver appears on the market.

1959: Coated razor blade invented.

Sources: “The Complete Guide to Grooming Products for Men,” by Jonathan Zizmore and Sharon Sabin; World Book Encyclopedia; “What’s What: A Visual Glossary of the Physical World,” Gillette Inc.