Latkes: The International Pancake

Ashkenazic Jews from Germany and Eastern Europe celebrate Hanukkah by preparing potato pancakes ( latkes ) fried in oil. Sephardic Jews, originally from Spain, mostly emigrated to countries around the Mediterranean. They also prepare versions of fried potato pancakes to celebrate this occasion. As a result, modern celebrants have a wealth of recipes from which to choose when planning a Hanukkah party menu.

Traditional Eastern European potato latkes are easy to prepare--the food processor has speeded up latke preparation so much that the potatoes don’t have time to turn black in the bowl.

French galettes --crisp, golden pancakes made from shredded potatoes--are another way to make traditional latkes with a slightly different twist. The key to making the best galettes is baking the potatoes before shredding them. Unfortunately, this means an old-fashioned grater is needed to shred the cold potatoes--they turn too gluey in the food processor. On the other hand, if you need to, you can brown the pancakes in advance and then re-crisp in a hot oven at party time.

In India, hot mashed potatoes are shaped into patties and then fried. Seasoned with onions, ginger, fresh bell peppers and chopped cashews, these aloo vadai are a spicy way for Jews in that country to celebrate Hanukkah. You can make the batter and shape the patties in advance. At party time, all you have to do is fry and serve. They’re terrific with a cooling yogurt-and-vegetable raita.

You can even make North African-style potato pancakes from sweet potatoes. They’re eaten with a hot pepper sauce. Preparation is easy because the food processor does the grating. And the batter can be stored up to four hours before frying.

TRADITIONAL POTATO LATKES

6 medium potatoes, rinsed thoroughly and cubed

1/2 medium onion, chopped

3 tablespoons flour

2 eggs

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Oil

Combine potato cubes, onion, flour, eggs, salt and pepper to taste in mixing bowl. Place 1/4 of mixture in work bowl of food processor and process until coarsely chopped. Transfer to second mixing bowl. Repeat until all ingredients are chopped. Work quickly and use immediately so mixture does not darken.

In large non-stick skillet, heat enough oil to cover bottom evenly over medium heat. By 1/4-cup measures, pour batter into pan, without crowding. Fry until crisp and brown and turn and fry on other side until done. Drain on paper towels to remove excess oil. Keep warm until all batter is used. Makes 26 pancakes.

Each latke contains about:

53 calories; 144 mg sodium; 16 mg cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.2 gram fiber.

FRENCH POTATO GALETTES

6 medium baking potatoes, rinsed well

Salt, pepper

2 eggs, lightly beaten

Oil

Day before frying, bake potatoes at 400 degrees 1 hour. Allow to cool thoroughly before continuing.

Peel cold potatoes and grate through large-hole grater. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add eggs. Toss lightly.

In large, non-stick skillet, heat enough oil to cover bottom over medium heat. By 1/4-cup measures, pour batter into pan, without crowding. Cook over medium-high heat until pancake browns and crisps on 1 side. Turn and repeat on other side. Keep warm until all batter is used.

Potatoes can be kept at room temperature until ready to serve. Reheat at 425 degrees until crisp. Makes 22 pancakes.

Each pancake contains about:

57 calories; 22 mg sodium; 19 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.22 gram fiber.

INDIAN POTATO PATTIES

(Aloo Vadai)

2 large potatoes, rinsed well and cut into pieces

1/4 cup chopped onions

1/4 cup chopped cashew nuts

1/4 cup chopped parsley

2 tablespoons chopped sweet red pepper

2 tablespoons chopped green pepper

1/4 cup chopped tomatoes, including liquid

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup flour

Oil

Yogurt raita, optional

Combine potatoes, onions, nuts, parsley, sweet red and green peppers, tomatoes, ginger, salt and flour in mixing bowl. Mix well. Using wet hands to keep potatoes from sticking, shape into patties. Place in single layer on platter. Cover and refrigerate until time to fry.

In large, non-stick skillet, heat enough oil to cover bottom over medium heat. Fry as many patties as fit without crowding. Cook on 1 side until crisp and brown. Turn and repeat on other side. Keep warm until all patties are fried. Serve at once with raita. Makes 16 patties.

Each patty contains about:

52 calories; 150 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.19 gram fiber.

Note : Yogurt raitas are traditional accompaniments to many Indian meals. Preparation is easy and fast--and they can be made with any number of vegetables, nuts or fruit. For instance, mix plain yogurt with cubes of cucumber and season to taste with ground roasted cumin seeds, ground roasted coriander seeds, dash cayenne pepper, salt and black pepper.

NORTH-AFRICAN- STYLE SWEET POTATO PANCAKES

2 1/2 pounds sweet potatoes or yams, peeled

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

5 eggs, lightly beaten

Oil

Grate sweet potatoes in food processor or with large-holed grater. Place in mixing bowl. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Mix in eggs. Cover and refrigerate (up to 4 hours) until time to fry.

In large, non-stick skillet, heat enough oil to cover bottom. By 1/4-cup measures, pour batter into pan without crowding. Cook until crisp and brown on 1 side. Then turn and fry on other side. Keep warm until all patties are fried. Makes 26 pancakes.

Each pancake contains about:

69 calories; 154 mg sodium; 41 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.37 gram fiber.

Menorah courtesy of the Crossroads in South Pasadena.

Gold-edged platter and wine glass courtesy of Cook ‘N’ Things in South Pasadena.

BACKGROUND

Hanukkah begins this year at sundown on the evening of Dec. 8. It commemorates the victory over the Assyrians some 20 centuries ago by Judah the Maccabee, leader of the Jews at that time. The holiday celebrates a miracle that occurred after the military conquest. When the ancient Jews were cleaning out the Temple, preparing for its rededication, they needed special, consecrated oil to light the menorah. They found some, but only enough for one day. The miracle was that this little bit of oil lasted for the entire eight days, the time it took to prepare new holy oil. As a result, this holiday, and all its food traditions, emphasize oil.