Wines With Merit

Meritage, a blend of the words heritage and merit , is pronounced like the former and aimed at being worthy of the latter. It refers to a high-quality wine made from more than one grape variety.

Well, perhaps “high-quality” is only the goal; maybe the word should be “expensive.” But a Meritage is a Bordeaux-type wine, white or red, that parallels the wines of that region of France where blending red grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec is de rigueur . White wines, primarily Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, are also blended in Bordeaux.

The philosophy is different in California, where varietal wine is seen as best-- federal law requires that a wine contain at least 75% of the named variety. Here, blends must be called “red wine” or “white wine” and usually can’t command top prices. Many producers feel this prevents them from making the best wine they can.

In 1988, a group of wineries--there are now roughly 40 members--formed the Meritage Assn. to promote the idea of blended wines and to regulate who may use the term Meritage.

The following Meritage wines, sampled at a recent blind tasting, are listed in approximate order of rank. The first four I found particularly outstanding.

1989 Joseph Phelps Vineyards “Insignia,” Napa Valley ($35): Potent, ripe black cherry, mint and cedar notes. A tannic, extractive wine with a hard mid-palate, but with such generous flavors I think the wine will age nicely. Even though it’s from an awkward vintage, this wine is a splendid example of point-on winemaking.

1990 Chimney Rock Vineyards “Elevage,” Stag’s Leap, Napa Valley ($30): A much elegant wine than the Phelps, with red currant and faint cinnamon/clove notes. There is a mouthful of red fruit and the aftertaste is long and rich, overcoming a bit of a tannic texture. Doug Fletcher has crafted a great wine that is in such short supply that it’s available only from the winery, (707) 257-2641.

1989 Guenoc Vineyards “Langtry Meritage Red,” Lake County ($35): Spices, red currant, smoke and vanilla in a complex package that is much leaner and less tannic than the previous two wines. Truly elegant texture.

1990 Flora Springs Winery “Trilogy,” Napa Valley ($35): Fine herbal and cherry notes and a fairly complex taste of berries. The wine is astringent and a bit coarse, but it has the stuff to age nicely and the flavors are truly tasty.

Benziger Family Winery “International Imagery” ($28): This wine, blended from various lots of red wine, mostly Cabernet, is not entitled to a vintage date. But it was made essentially from the 1990 harvest in Bordeaux, Chile, Australia and the U.S., and is a truly elegant blend--quite ripe and concentrated, with some mature flavors of cedar and toast and traces of overripe berries and violets. Very tasty, with great texture, but without a great deal of focus. Probably will be better in a few years. Available at select stores and at the winery, (707) 935-4047.

1988 Dry Creek Winery “Meritage,” Sonoma County ($18): A challenging initial aroma of hay and green beans opens with aeration to show more complexity and great texture and softness. Not a wine for everyone, but with intriguing flavors and a fair price.

1990 Leonetti Cellars “Select” Walla Walla, Wash., ($28): Faintly jammy aroma and a load of oak are the first things you smell in this concentrated, fairly unctuous wine that is 50% Merlot. Good fruit, a trace of bacon smoke as the wine opens up, and lots of thick flavors. Not as graceful as some past Leonetti efforts, but very tasty. For those who like big, rich wines.

1989 Merryvale Vineyards “Profile,” Napa Valley ($30): Thick, mature flavors that reminded some tasters of Bordeaux, but it has a layer of almost gritty tannins that need years to resolve.

1988 Clos du Val “Reserve,” Napa Valley ($48): An initially odd tomato-y sort of aroma fades with aeration to show some fruit and richness, but the tannins seemed a bit coarse. Some tasters liked the wine, believing it was simply going through a strange stage and that it would resolve with another couple of years. For the price, I think it’s too much of a gamble.

1990 Pahlmeyer “Caldwell Vineyard,” Napa Valley ($32): It has the fingerprints of winemaker Randy Dunn and emulates his big, rich style. There is a lot of blackberry, black cherry, spice and a touch of mint in this compact, powerful wine, but the huge wall of tannin is so thick I wonder if the wine will be drinkable in my lifetime. And I’m not all that old.

1991 Newton Winery “Claret,” Napa Valley ($12): Big, direct flavors of Cabernet herbs and spice and Merlot sweetness. Not very complex, but delicious and round, with great flavors for the price. Newton winemaker John Kongsgaard has made this “declassified” table wine for three years, and it is becoming one of the annual bargains to look for. Often discounted below $10.

1989 Cain Cellars “Cuvee,” Napa Valley ($12): Quite a bargain, considering the red currant, cinnamon and berry-like scents and the elegant, approachable texture. A tasty and charming wine that was wonderful with a bit of aeration.