THE WINE LIST

In the English tradition, steak off the grill calls for claret, which at the Grill means something like 1985 Chateau Talbot, $55, a decent wine that should work with the beef. Or try 1989 Chateau Greysac, a modest but decently rich red at $20.

Still, most Californians prefer something brawnier, such as domestic Cabernet Sauvignon. The Grill offers two dozen Cabernets: Best bets are 1988 Silver Oak “Bonny’s Vineyard,” $35, or 1989 Caymus, $35.

To accompany seafood, the best values in whites include 1990 Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc, $19, and 1989 Grgich Hills Fume Blanc, $19.

One final sleeper here is Iron Horse Brut, a sublime sparkling wine, which at $30 is a good buy and works well as a Chardonnay substitute for leaner dishes.