Olympic Feasts : More Is <i> Lefse</i>
Ten years ago, on a Saturday afternoon near Gordy’s Cafe in Starbuck, Minn. (pop. 1,200), nine men got together to make lefse. Not just ordinary lefse , but the world’s largest--a paper-thin 9-foot, 8-inch-by-9-foot, 1-inch deluxe flatbread--big enough to get their masterpiece listed in the Schibsted Norwegian Book of Records. “The Guinness Book,” says participant Ron Lindquist, “claimed they didn’t have a category.”
Lefse is traditionally made at holidays and other special occasions, and many Norwegians here consider lefse almost as big a deal as a trip to Oslo. Non-Norwegians aren’t as impressed--some have been spotted at annual Lutheran Church lutefisk (lye-soaked and steamed cod) suppers unfolding the lefse and placing it on their laps as napkins.
At the record breaker in Starbuck, more than 4,000 people turned up to witness the event, including the Pillsbury Doughboy, who supplied the 30 pounds of instant potatoes it took to make the giant flatbread. “Everyone wanted to get in on the act,” says Lindquist.
But that’s potato, or southern-style, lefse. In Norway, there are at least 50 kinds--almost every district has its own recipe for lefse and most do not include potatoes. Hardanger , or west coast lefse , is made from lard dissolved in milk, sugar, salt and flour. It keeps practically forever and no refrigeration is needed. When you want to eat it, you simply dip it in water, let the excess drip off and let it rest between towels or waxed paper until it’s soft and pliable. Northern Norwegians prefer the richer krinalefse (decorated) made with eggs, buttermilk and whipping cream, or mor (tender) lefse made with eggs, sour cream, and corn syrup.
There’s even a lefse made with yeast. “When I was teaching,” says Bitten Norvoll, “a lady told me about it. When I told her I never heard of it, she says, ‘Yeah, I’ll bring you some.’ And it was really good, but I kind of stick to northern lefse, the one without the potato.”
All lefse has to be rolled paper-thin ( lefse means flat in Norwegian). It’s easier if you use a specially carved lefse rolling pin that has grooves in it, available at Scandinavian shops. “ Lefse is not short like pie crust,” says Norvoll, “so the grooves help to spread the dough faster.” Norvoll also recommends making the lefse one day and refrigerating it overnight. “Anyone can make lefse ,” says Norvoll. “Just don’t make them too big.”
Even the lefse makers from Starbuck might grudgingly agree.
Since the giant lefse was created, many have tried without success to break that record. In fact, the Norwegian record holders have tried--and failed--to create a larger lefse . At some point down the road they plan to try again. For now, they are content to wait until their record is broken. “We tried a couple of times,” says Lindquist. “But there’s no sense in breaking our backs over it.”
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Lefse sticks are available at Scandinavian shops, but you can also use a spatula. Lefse makers also use a round board for rolling with a custom-fitted pastry cloth, but a dish towel on top of a counter top works fine. Also lefse rolling pins have grooves to prevent sticking, but many people improvise by using a smooth pin covered with a sock. All equipment is available through mail from Maid of Scandinavia, 3244 Raleigh Ave., Minneapolis, Minn. 55416. (800) 328-6722.
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The traditional way to eat lefse is to spread each round with butter, sprinkle on some white sugar, and then roll or fold into fourths.
POTATO LEFSE
2 1/2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled
1/2 cup butter
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon salt
1 1/2 cups flour
In pot boil peeled potatoes. Drain thoroughly and press through ricer or food mill while still warm. Should make about 5 cups. Cool to room temperature.
Add butter, sugar and salt. Knead flour into dough, bit at time, adding just enough to be able to roll out thin. Remove 1/3-cup portion and refrigerate rest.
Using floured lefse rolling pin or rolling pin with fabric sleeve, roll out dough on floured pastry cloth to 6- to 7-inch diameter. Slide lefse stick or long spatula underneath and turn dough over. This will prevent sticking. Continue rolling until round is 14 to 16 inches in diameter. Slip lefse stick or spatula under rolled dough and transfer to grill heated to 500 degrees and oiled. Cook 35 to 40 seconds or until bubbles begin to form. Flip and grill until medium-brown spots appear.
Transfer lefse to towel using lefse stick. Cover with another towel to prevent drying, then let cool. Repeat until all remaining dough is used. Fold finished rounds in half and then in half again to store. Makes 10 lefse.
Each lefse contains about:
243 calories; 809 mg sodium; 25 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 36 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.53 gram fiber.
KRINALEFSE
3 eggs
3/4 cup sugar
2 cups buttermilk
1/2 cup butter, melted
1/2 cup whipping cream
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
5 to 7 cups flour
Filling
Mix eggs, sugar, buttermilk, butter, whipping cream, baking soda and lemon zest in large mixing bowl. Knead enough flour into dough to be able to roll out thin. Remove 1/3-cup portion and refrigerate rest.
Using floured lefse rolling pin or rolling pin with fabric sleeve, roll out dough on floured pastry cloth to 6- to 7-inch diameter. Pierce rounds of lefse with fork to create design. Slide lefse stick or long spatula underneath and turn dough over. This will prevent sticking.
Continue rolling until round is 14 to 16 inches in diameter. Slip lefse stick or spatula under rolled dough and transfer to grill heated to 500 degrees and oiled. Cook 35 to 40 seconds or until bubbles begin to form. Flip and grill until medium-brown spots appear. Transfer lefse to towel using lefse stick. Cover with another towel to prevent drying and cool. Repeat until all remaining dough is used. When cool, spread Filling between 2 rounds. Cut into eighths. Makes about 80 pieces.
Each piece contains about:
74 calories; 33 mg sodium; 17 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.04 gram fiber.
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Filling
1/2 cup butter, room temperature
3/4 cup sugar
3 tablespoons whipping cream
2 tablespoons cardamom
Mix butter, sugar, whipping cream and cardamom in small bowl.