THE WINE LIST

When the new Mortons opened, virtually every wine in the place was overpriced. But recently, prices were reduced almost across the board. What had been a steep $40 for 1990 Sonoma-Cutrer “Les Pierres” Chardonnay now is an OK $35; what had been an excessive $48 for 1990 Matanzas Creek Merlot is now an almost fair $40.

Still, this list is pretty unexciting. The California white wine “selection” is 18 Chardonnays and one Sauvignon Blanc--and it’s made like a Chardonnay (1992 Matanzas Creek, a bargain at $18). The domestic red list is almost all weighty Cabernet Sauvignons.

Of the whites, two great wines at fair prices are 1991 Sancerre from Comte La Fond, $28, and the best buy, 1992 Poggio Alle Gazze, a Sauvignon Blanc from the Tuscan estate of Lodovico Antinori, $20.

Of the red wines, the excellent 1991 Acacia Pinot Noir, $25, and the powerful 1990 Chianti Classico “Peppoli” from Piero Antinori, $27, are both excellent choices.