Lift a Stein, Munch a Strudel at Anneliese’s Bavarian Inn

In 1961, Karl’s Little Bavaria opened in Long Beach and quickly became a favorite with college students for German beer and an occasional sausage. Karl’s has evolved into Anneliese’s Bavarian Inn, where some of those former college students are bringing their grandchildren. There’s still a good beer list, but the emphasis is on German food.

Anneliese Kohlbrecher runs the show, from cooking to bringing the hot plate to your table as soon as it’s done. She bakes the restaurant’s flaky, buttery apple strudel and is never too busy to whip up a special remedy when a neighboring merchant doesn’t feel well.

Anneliese got acquainted with the restaurant business early, starting in the kitchen of her parents’ restaurant when she was 9. That was in 1939. Five years later Allied bombing runs destroyed most of the German village where they lived, including the restaurant (the family survived). Years later, Anneliese met her husband, Wilson Kohlbrecher, a famous German boxer and wrestler, and he brought her to America.

A good way to begin a meal here, and a good foil for such German brews as Dortmunder or Ritterbrau, is the assorted sausage plate ($5.75): thick slices of sauteed bratwurst and weisswurst (“white sausage”), made with veal, cream and eggs.

The most popular main course is sauerbraten ($12.95), tender slices of a pot roast that has simmered for hours after being marinated in vinegar for two days. The beef is served with carrots, dumplings and a large mound of steamed red cabbage given a boost with cloves and apples. Like all entrees, it comes with salad or soup. A thick, smoked pork chop is accompanied by (surprise!) your choice of sausage. Anneliese’s is no place for dieters, but the food is full of flavor.

For lunch, the potato pancakes ($5.25) and a sandwich piled high with Black Forest ham ($7.75) are big sellers.

Anneliese’s Bavarian Inn is at 5730 E. 2nd St., Long Beach. (310) 439-4089. Open Monday, and Wednesday through Friday 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., and 5 to 9 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday 4 to 10 p.m.