Muffins: Lumpy Is Good

Proper mixing is the key to making quality muffins. When prepared correctly, the batter bakes into quick breads that have rounded, cauliflower-like tops and light, moist interiors with an even-grained texture.

If the batter is overmixed, tunnels develop inside the muffins during baking and the texture changes from that of bread to cake. Top crusts turn out smooth and peaked.

To produce first-rate muffins, begin by thoroughly blending the dry ingredients--flour, sugar, baking powder and salt--in a medium-sized bowl. Make a well in the center of this mixture and set the bowl aside. Then in a smaller bowl, mix the liquid ingredients--egg, milk, melted fat or oil and other seasonings--until well combined.

Pour the liquid ingredients all at once into the well in the dry ingredients (Step 1) and stir just enough to moisten the flour mixture--12 to 15 circular stirs with a spoon or rubber spatula. The batter should still be lumpy (Step 2), but not have any areas with dry flour.

Scoop or spoon the batter into greased or paper-lined muffins cups (Step 3) to 2/3 full, unless directed otherwise in the recipe. To eliminate misshapen or lopsided muffins, a single scoop or spoonful of batter should be used for each muffin, rather than adding batter a bit at a time. Fill any empty muffin cups with water to prevent the pan from warping during baking.

Before placing the muffins in the oven, sprinkle the top of each one with sugar (Step 4). Raw and decorator sugars, which have a coarser texture, make an attractive alternative. They can be found in specialty food and cake-decorating supply stores.

Oven temperatures of 400 to 425 degrees permit the muffins to bake through to the center quickly, before the outside burns or dries out. Remove from the oven when the muffins are golden brown, spring back when pressed lightly or when a wood pick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Cool briefly on a wire rack (Step 5). Muffins are meant to be served while still warm from the oven; they don’t retain their freshness very long. If they must be stored, remove them from the pan and cool, then wrap them carefully and freeze. Reheat frozen muffins, wrapped in foil, at 350 degrees 15 to 20 minutes, or until heated through.

Any muffin recipe may be baked in the now-popular oversized form. Larger-size muffins pans are available in many housewares departments and cookware stores. Some recipes may need an adjustment in baking time, but this recipe for lemon muffins was developed using a muffin pan with three-inch-diameter depressions.

Note: Some muffins are intended to be rich and have a cake-like texture. These are high in sugar and shortening and are prepared by another mixing method, similar to cakes. Such batters can withstand more mixing and need to be baked at lower temperatures, 350 degrees to 375 degrees.

LEMON MUFFINS

1 3/4 cups flour

1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 egg

2/3 cup milk

1 tablespoon minced lemon zest

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/3 cup oil

Combine flour, 1/2 cup sugar, baking powder and salt in medium-sized mixing bowl. Beat egg lightly in small bowl. Stir in milk, 2 1/2 teaspoons lemon zest, lemon juice and oil.

Add liquid to flour mixture, stirring just until moistened. Fill greased muffin cups 2/3 full.

Combine remaining 3 tablespoons sugar and 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest. Sprinkle over tops of muffins.

Bake at 400 degrees 20 minutes. Makes about 6 large muffins.

Each serving contains about:

344 calories; 434 mg sodium; 37 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 51 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.10 gram fiber.

Note: Raw or decorator sugar may be substituted for granulated sugar in topping.