Strong Swell Makes for a Ho New Adventure
The strong five-foot south swell that banged across Orange County beaches provided great waves for the Bud Tour’s Body Glove contest at Huntington Beach.
Rockin’ Fig, the announcer at the May 11-15 tour, said he saw five- to eight-foot faces that had Hawaiian pros, such as current world champion Derek Ho, talking it up.
Ho told Figgy that surfing clean, top-to-bottom waves had changed his mind about So Cal’s reputation for dinky surf.
“Hey, I’ve come to Southern California, especially Huntington Beach, lots of times,” Ho told Fig. “And I always thought it was mushy. But I got some barrels this time!”
In fact, Ho posted a 9.5 (of a possible 10) for the highest individual wave score at the contest, held at the Santa Ana River jetties. Ho’s ride impressed Figgy.
Derek Ho’s wave was a big set wave that went left. It started off just like Pipe. Ho then pulled in and did a big disappearance act just like at home. He came out of the barrel and was jamming down the line and went right into another peak. It was amazing. He then flew off the bottom and just went WHACK! Right at the lip. It was one of the heaviest waves.
But unfortunately for Ho, he failed to put together many more like it and finished seventh. The finals saw former world champ Kelly Slater of Florida--yup, him again after taking the Katin contest earlier this month--and Cardiff’s Rob Machado in a classic duel.
Fig said Slater was “totally mental” for the last heat, winning the Body Glove contest for $4,000. Machado was second, Ross Williams of Hawaii grabbed third and Marty Thomas of Long Beach was fourth.
It was neck and neck with Machado. Then Slater hit big time on the best wave of the finals. He did a front-side 360, backside 360, threw a front-side air, and then threw a backside air, then capped it with a 180. And, let me tell you, Machado was ripping, too. He was just knifing waves off the top. It was close; Machado was leading halfway through the final, when all of a sudden Slater went mental with that wave.
Before the awards were handed out, spectators were treated to an impromptu jam session with surfers who swapped surfboards for guitars. Musician Gary Hoey, who performed some of the soundtrack on “Endless Summer II: The Journey Continues,” joined surfers Slater, Machado and Donovan Frankenreiter of Laguna Niguel, who plays in the band Sun Child.
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Movie: “Endless Summer II,” the long-awaited project from filmmaker Bruce Brown, was pre-screened last week. Mike Reilley, a sportswriter for The Times, called it “a helluva surf flick.” Cool, Mike. But next time, remember to pick up those people you invite. I would’ve loved to have seen it.
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Movie II: “Endless Summer II” will be screened at a premiere benefit for Surfrider Foundation at 8 p.m. Wednesday at the Santa Monica AMC theater, Third Street Promenade. Tickets are $50. For VIP seats, $100. For more information, call Surfrider Foundation, (714) 492-8170.
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Movie III: Brown, who made the original “Endless Summer” 30 years ago, will be awarded the Waterman Achievement Award on June 4 at the fifth annual Waterman’s Ball, at the Noguchi garden (California Scenario) in Costa Mesa. The Surf Industry Manufacturers Assn., which is hosting the event, hopes the occasion will raise $100,000 for environmental organizations. Tickets are $100. Call (714) 760-0784.
Fig and I plan to attend the much-delayed release, which follows two surfers, Robert (Wingnut) Weaver and Pat O’Connell.
Yeah, we’re tired of waiting. We want to see what O’Connell has to offer. Imagine surfing around the world and getting $100,000 to do it!
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Brazil: The U.S. Surfing Federation’s national team returned from the world amateur surfing championship in Brazil with a disappointing fifth place. The Australians just nipped the Brazilian team for the title. Hawaii took third, South Africa was fourth and France, sixth.
Juniors Kalani Robb of Team Hawaii and Corey Lopez of Team U.S.A. took first and fourth, respectively.
Figgy said the Hawaiian and U.S. teams should be combined and compete as one. The Fig was part of the U.S. team in the mid-’70s that took the world title in France. Fig’s high on Robb, saying he’s gonna be another Machado.
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Set in Stone: The Huntington Beach Surfing Walk of Fame inauguration will be held at 11 a.m. Saturday at Jack’s Surf Store, PCH and Main.
