How to Keep Mower on the Cutting-Edge of Lawn Care : YARDS
A rotary mower needs a full checkup at least once a year. Here are some suggestions for giving it a going-over:
Cleaning * Clean the exterior with dishwashing detergent and a soft rag. Remove caked grass under the deck with a scraping tool. Clean cooling fins with a kerosene-soaked rag wrapped around a screwdriver.
A New Spark Plug
* Buy a new spark plug that is an exact replacement of the old. A new spark plug is inexpensive and helps ensure a quick-starting and smooth-running engine.
* Following the owner’s manual specifications, set the gap between the two metal electrodes at the threaded end. Use a gap gauge, available at hardware or auto stores. Adjust the gap by bending the side electrode to the proper distance from the center electrode.
* Check that the spark-plug wire terminal fits tightly on the plug. If it’s loose, push back the rubber nipple that covers the terminal and crimp the terminal with pliers.
Crankcase, Pull Cord, Air Filter
* Before every mowing, check to see that the crankcase in a four-cycle engine is filled to the mark with oil specified in the owner’s manual. In a two-cycle engine, oil is mixed with the gasoline and poured into the fuel tank.
* If the starter has a cord, inspect it; if it is frayed, replace it.
* Remove the air-filter cover and inspect the filter element. Replace a pleated paper filter once a year and vacuum it occasionally. Wash a plastic foam filter in hot soapy water, rinse, and gently squeeze the rinse water out. Allow it to air-dry. Following the owner’s manual instructions, re-oil the filter, gently squeezing it to spread the oil evenly and reinstall it.
Belt Drive
* Check the belt drive for looseness. Press down on the belt with a finger. If it deflects more than three-quarters of an inch, readjust it. With most belt drives you can loosen the engine-to-mower bolts, which pass through elongated holes, and move the engine forward or back as necessary. A cracked belt, or one that can’t be properly tensioned, must be replaced. Loosen the device that applies tension to the belt. Then loosen the motor bolts and push the motor forward toward the pulley it drives. Remove the belt and take it to a hardware store or lawn-mower dealer so that you can get an exact duplicate. Install the new belt and adjust the tension until the belt deflects less than three-fourths of an inch.
Gas the Tank, Prime the Engine
* If gasoline was left in the tank during the off-season (it shouldn’t have been), it may have formed a gum that fouls the fuel line and carburetor. To clean out the gum, pour a little carburetor solvent into the tank, slosh it around and then drain the tank. Fill with fresh gasoline.
* To prime the engine, remove the air filter and pour two to three tablespoons of clean, fresh gasoline into the bottom of the filter housing. Reinstall the filter and crank the engine until it starts. For two-cycle engines, mix oil and gasoline in correct proportions in a separate container, then pour the mixture into the fuel tank. Never use the mower’s fuel tank as the mixing receptacle; poorly mixed fuel will quickly clog a fuel line.
Inspect Blade, Apply Oil
* A sharp blade not only cuts easier, it reduces damage to the grass. If the blade is badly nicked, replace it or have it sharpened by a professional.
Don’t try to file away anything other than minor nicks; you’ll unbalance the blade. That will put an uneven load on the engine and may cause damage.
* Spray the carburetor linkage with penetrating oil. Also spray penetrating oil on the axles.
Ignition
* If you have an older mower with ignition points instead of an electronic ignition, inspect the points and adjust the gap between the contacts according to the engine manufacturer’s specifications. The points are under the flywheel, and to remove the flywheel you need special tools.
You can avoid buying such tools by installing an electronic ignition (a conversion kit is less costly than the tools you need to service points).
