INSIDE & OUT : Complete a Rough Job With Less Mess
Q. Like a lot of people, I want to get rid of the acoustic, cottage cheese ceilings in my house. I know it should be easy to scrape off, but I’m wondering if I’ll have to apply a drywall mud afterward to finish it.
B.K., Anaheim
A. You may not be approaching this problem the right way, says Pete Gorman of Rancho Lumber in Westminster. The first thing you should consider is whether your ceiling has asbestos. Many homes have been made with asbestos ceilings over the years, and the only way to be sure is to have yours tested by an asbestos removal professional. If it does, once you tear into the ceiling, the fine asbestos particles get everywhere. Even if you don’t have asbestos, scraping a ceiling really creates a mess.
A better solution may be to encase the acoustic ceiling by laying drywall directly on top of it. You can use a thin, 1/4-inch drywall, and you get your smooth ceiling with a lot less trouble.
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Q. We’re making plans to remodel our house, and we were thinking of encasing the outside of one of the fireplaces in an elaborate wood mantel. However, a friend told us that wood or other flammable materials had to be at least 18 inches from a fireplace. Is that true?
J.I., Laguna Hills
A. There is a universal building code that dictates how close flammable materials should be to a fireplace, and some municipalities tighten those codes, says Chris Jank of the Hearthstone in Corona del Mar.
In Orange County, the rule is 12 inches from the top of the opening and eight inches on each side. Many people make their mantles 12 inches on the top and sides so that it looks balanced. You could also try setting the firebox 12 inches into the wall. This would allow you to build the mantle around the opening.
It’s best to probably check with your local building department to find out about particular restrictions on fireplaces, but whatever the rules, you should be able to find or come up with a design that you like and that meets the code.
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Q. We’re getting our exterior ready for painting. I’ve noticed that in several areas, the stucco has become powdery. Does this mean that water is getting underneath the wall? How should it be taken care of?
S.O., Lake Forest
A. It’s not necessarily water damage, says Charlie Kaczoroski of Tustin Paint Mart. As stucco ages, it sometimes deteriorates and gets Lyme deposits on the outside of the stucco. Make sure the wall is clean; probably the best way to do that is to wash it with a high-powered water sprayer.
After it dries, you can apply a masonry surface conditioner that will fortify the stucco. It should also have some kind of alkali resistant properties that will keep the stucco from powdering. You should be able to paint directly over the conditioner after it dries.
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Q. I’m getting ready to repaint my bathroom. A metal-framed picture has left a rust stain on the wall. I know this will show through the new coat of paint; how can it be prepared to keep it hidden?
D.D., Yorba Linda
A. Your first step should be to sand the rusted area, says Andrew Carter of Sinclair Paint in Costa Mesa. It’s not likely that rust has bled very deeply into the paint, but you should still do your best to sand off as much as you can. Apply an oil-based primer to the spotted areas, and that should keep it hidden.
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Q. I’ll be buying my first computer soon, and I was told that it’s important to make sure the outlets in my house are grounded. How can I tell that?
A.S., Irvine
A. Most hardware stores carry an inexpensive tester that fits into the outlet like a plug, says Mike McCoy of Current Supply in Westminster. You insert it, and it will tell you whether the outlet is grounded and also if the polarity is correct. It’s a handy tool to carry, especially when traveling and using a computer because you can check on unknown outlets before risking your equipment on them.
