Fall for Figs

The Romans used to boil ham with figs. Apicius, the famous Roman gourmand, encouraged his hogs to eat figs, so their meat would taste even better.

History aside, I am happy that fresh figs are in season again. I am eating cut-up figs over vanilla ice cream, figs with prosciutto, figs arranged on arugula leaves and drizzled with olive oil, fresh fig tart, and just plain figs out of hand--preferably while sitting in the sun.

In the United States, only a few varieties of figs are available commercially, and most of them are grown in California. The Black Mission, named for the Spanish missions at which figs were first cultivated, are small and dark-purple and have a deep, rich flavor. The Calimyrna (a variety of the Smyrna fig of Izmir, Turkey, where the fruit is purported to have first been cultivated) is plump, green and very juicy. The Kadota, another green variety, is “taller” than the Calimyrna but just as sweet and fragrant.

The hundreds of other varieties of figs worldwide all vary somewhat in exterior and interior appearance. Personally, I find ripeness more important than variety.

A ripe fig is soft with the sensation of sweetness--but not sugar--when one takes a bite. The taste is really about texture. Most figs are thin-skinned and don’t need to be peeled.

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My latest passion is for fig clafouti , a baked pudding typically made with cherries and originally from the Limousin region of France. It makes a rich and wonderful dessert after a light and easy (no cooking required) summer supper of sliced meats and tomato, corn and cucumber salad.

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This salad is great with any fresh herbs you may have on hand. In addition (or instead of) the basil use cilantro, or add a tablespoon of fresh oregano or thyme leaves.

TOMATO, CORN AND CUCUMBER SALAD

1 garlic clove, halved

2 large ripe tomatoes, cored and quartered

2 ears corn, husked, kernels cut from cobs

1 cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise and sliced

1 cup fresh basil leaves

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Rub inside of large shallow bowl with cut side of garlic clove. Reserve garlic for another dish. Add tomatoes, corn kernels, cucumber and basil. Season to taste generously with salt and pepper. Drizzle with olive oil. Toss to combine. Serve at room temperature. Makes 4 generous servings.

FIG CLAFOUTI

Butter and sugar for baking dish

1 pint fresh figs, rinsed, stems trimmed, halved lengthwise

4 large eggs

1 1/2 cups milk

1 cup whipping cream or half and half

1/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

Dash salt

1 cup flour

Butter 10-inch glass pie plate or shallow 2-quart baking dish. Sprinkle lightly with thin film of sugar, about 2 tablespoons. Arrange figs, cut side up, in baking dish.

Beat eggs in large bowl with whisk until foamy. Add milk, cream, 1/4 cup sugar, vanilla and salt. Stir until blended. Add flour and stir just until blended. Pour mixture slowly over figs.

Bake at 375 degrees until clafouti is puffed and lightly browned, about 35 minutes. Sprinkle with additional sugar. Serve warm. Makes 8 servings.