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INSIDE & OUT : ‘Acid Rain’ in Water Heater? It’s From Asbestos

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

Q. A serviceman recently advised us to replace the vents from our furnace and water heater because they had Transite sleeves, which when they become moist form an “acid rain” that could damage the electronic elements of the furnace and the interior of the water heater. Other professionals I’ve talked to have never heard of such a problem. Is it possible?

T.V.O.

Irvine*

A. In some older homes, you can find vent pipes made of Transite, which is a white asbestos product, says Joel Gwartz of B.J. Discount Plumbing & Heating Supply in Garden Grove. Normally, these types of vents aren’t a problem. But when you combine them with the newer, highly efficient furnaces, you can get condensation within the Transite vent. This moisture could then drip down and damage the electronic controls. When furnaces are replaced, the vents are usually checked for Transite, and they’re replaced if they’re found to contain asbestos. Your serviceman probably saw the type of furnace you have and saw that you could have a problem down the road.

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Q. We have several brown spots on our bathroom mirror. The bathroom is small and has only a fan, no window. Any ideas on how to get rid of them? I’d hate to replace the entire mirror.

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J.P.

Orange

A. It’s probably moisture getting behind the mirror, says Dee Watt of College Glass & Mirror in Anaheim. What often happens is that the moisture gets into the metal channel that supports the mirror at the bottom, and the water becomes absorbed in the back of the mirror. Unfortunately, these brown spots can’t be removed. If the staining is at the edge of the mirror, the edge can be cut off and polished. If you can keep water from getting into the channel, you can prevent the problem. Glass installers often use a small shim to lift the mirror in the channel and prevent it from sitting in the moisture. You can also use a water-sealing caulk around the area.

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Q. I’m going to be painting some chairs with a high-gloss enamel. Why must I sand the finish between coats?

T.I.

San Clemente

A. The reason is obvious once you think about it: Paint doesn’t adhere well to glossy surfaces, says Charlie Kaczorowski of Tustin Paint Mart. After you apply your first coat, you end up with a glossy surface that may not fully cover your chair. If you were to apply a second coat without sanding, you would not be giving the second coat much to adhere to. Use a fine or very fine sandpaper to etch the surface into your initial coat. That will give the second coat a good surface to stick to, and you’ll end up with a stronger finish.

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Q. We have a urethane-finished hardwood floor in our kitchen that’s 5 years old. It’s in pretty good shape, and we do our best to keep it up, but in places it looks like it needs a new finish. I’ve heard there’s a polish that can be used on urethane floors. Is that true?

R.R.

Santa Ana

A. Unfortunately, there isn’t a polish designed for urethane, says John Drew of Chamberlain Floors in Fountain Valley. If you were to add polish or wax to a urethane floor, the surface would become very slick. Generally, the only treatment for urethane is to clean it with a product recommended by the floor manufacturer and, if necessary, refinish or reapply the urethane where it’s needed.

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Q. We’d like to get (inset) wood blinds for one of our windows, but the window is somewhat crooked. The top and bottom are the same width, but the middle goes in about an inch. Can blinds be made to fit such odd dimensions?

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D.E.

Cypress

A. You probably could get some made, but you may be better off fixing the window opening, says blinds installer Steve Wisen. The problem is that they’re going to look funny dipping in like that. You’re better off having the window reset and replastered so that it’s straight before you get blinds.

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