In Short, Long Nails Have Grown Passe : Grooming: Just because the neat and natural look has pushed aside those daunting three-inch ‘claws’ doesn’t mean that hands have to be plain.

Women have gone to great lengths to have long, perfect nails. They’ve tried everything from getting exotic nail wraps to gluing on plastic press-on nails.

Today they don’t have to go to extremes, because shorter nails are in style, and three-inch, dragon-lady nails have bitten the dust.

“I call the long nails ‘Hollywood squares’ because of their squared-off edges. They’re very passe,” says Julie Walker, manicurist and owner of Essence Salon at the Sutton Place Hotel in Newport Beach.

The latest look for nails is short, well-groomed and natural, but that doesn’t mean they have to be plain.

“You can wear red on short nails, and it’s gorgeous,” Walker says. “We’re going back to the glamour look of the ‘40s.”

After years of wearing clear polish, women are again experimenting with colorful, vampish enamels.

“Pink’s the hottest color now,” says Kristin LeBlanc, nail technician at Bellezza Salon Day Spa in Laguna Niguel. Bright pinks such as fuchsia are more popular than the paler shades.

There are many ways to cultivate the kind of perfect nails needed to pull off the bright, glamorous looks. Thanks to the shorter lengths, many women can make do without acrylics or other artificial enhancers and pamper the nails they have. “The best thing for natural nails is a good, old-fashioned manicure,” Walker says.

A good manicure includes the following steps: Hands and nails should be thoroughly cleansed. The surface of the nails should be lightly buffed with a very fine grain file to smooth the ridges, but without weakening the nail. Cuticles should be gently pushed back to the base but never clipped--that causes them to shred. Nail tips should be shaped with a file so the edges are smooth.

“If little shavings are left on the nail, it will chip,” Walker says.

After color is applied, nails should be capped with clear polish. A topcoat is applied around the edges and under the nail so the polish lasts longer, Walker says.

If done properly, a manicure can last a couple of weeks. Walker suggests visiting only licensed manicurists who maintain clean, sanitary salons. Manicures done with unsanitary implements can lead to diseases such as nail fungus.

Those who aren’t blessed with strong, healthy nails can always fake it, choosing from a variety of artificial nail enhancers, including gels, acrylics, silk wraps and fiberglass.

“It’s whatever method works best for you,” Walker says. Some women prefer silk wraps because they’re thin and natural-looking, but silk wraps can come unglued after extended periods in water, so they’re not the ideal choice for women who spend a lot of time in the pool or shower, she says. Acrylics are stronger, but they tend to be heavier.

Many Orange County women are asking for faux French manicures, the latest development in artificial nails, says Donald Anderson, owner of the Emerald Beauty Salon and Day Spa in Tustin.

Pink acrylic powder is applied on the nail bed; white powder is used on the tip. The nails can be covered in a clear polish or a colored enamel.

“You can paint the nails red, then remove the polish and still have a French manicure,” Anderson says.

Artificial nails have come a long way in recent years. Because the formulas are stronger, they can be applied in thinner coats.

“They look natural, not clumpy,” Anderson says.

Between visits to a manicurist, nails need regular care.

Walker recommends conditioning the hands and nails daily with a moisturizer.

“Nails will reflect the condition of the skin around the nails,” she says.

When shaping nails with a file, mirror the shape of your cuticle.

“If you have an oval cuticle, the tips should have an oval shape because your nails naturally grow that way. If the cuticles are square, mirror that. They look more natural,” Walker says.

File the nails slowly--a rapid back-and-forth motion causes the nail layers to split and the nail to peel. Use a buffer to remove any shavings.

When painting your nails, make sure you clean the nail plate with soap and water or rubbing alcohol before applying the polish, then thoroughly dry your hands. Any moisturizers or lotions left on the nails before polishing will cause the polish to chip.

A base coat will help smooth the nail ridges, followed by two coats of color and a top coat for a high-gloss finish. Some of the new nail-strengthening products on the market, such as Nailtiques, also help prevent chipping.

Clear polish applied on the nails every other day helps protect the enamel. If the color chips, try touching it up with the enamel instead of re-polishing the nails.

“Polish remover is drying. The less you fuss with your nails, the better,” Walker says.