This Spud’s for You

Potatoes among the most versatile of foods. Besides classic uses--vichyssoise, scalloped potatoes, picnic salads, potato chips and fries--there’s potato gnocchi, even potato risotto.

Some chefs are cooking herb-laminated potato chips--potatoes are sliced very thin lengthwise and leaves of fresh herbs are sandwiched between. The potatoes are then brushed with butter and baked until crisp, with the herbs showing through.

Potatoes are being shredded and crusted around fish, which is then seared, giving it a delicious crunchy coat.

Crisp oven-roasted potatoes are delicious, especially when cooked alongside a roast.

No matter what chefs pair mased potatoes with on a menu, they sell well. The variations can be riotous: basil pesto, Parmesan cheese and olive oil, garlic and fresh herbs, to fold-ins such as primavera (seasonal vegetables) or cooked mashed carrots, parsnips or (one of my favorites) celery root. And, of course, mashed potatoes with sauteed cabbage and onions is the traditional Irish dish, colcannon.

The type of potatoes being mashed can vary as well. Traditional baking potatoes can be used but also buttery looking yellow Finns and red boiling potatoes, with their skins on to add a dab of color. There are even mashed purple potatoes.

Leftover potatoes can be made into great things too, such as savory mashed potato cakes. Leftover baked potatoes, shredded or diced, make great hash browns by themselves or with bits of onion and peppers added. They are also the perfect binding vehicle for hash, whether made of corned beef, roast chicken or salmon.

In the Midwest, creamy baked potato soup is popular, adorned with shredded Cheddar, chives and bacon, with a little sour cream swirled in. Potato skins, that old standard bar food, takes care of leftover baked potatoes. The scooped-out skins are fried, then topped with cheese, bacon and sour cream; in Canada, they use sour cream and applesauce, somewhat of a play on the traditional accompaniments for potato pancakes.

What follows are some of my favorite potato recipes.

BAKED RUSSET POTATOES WITH THE WORKS

This is a real indulgence, but follow the instructions for a true baked potato, whatever you decide to top it with.

6 to 8 baking potatoes

6 tablespoons shredded mozzarella cheese

6 tablespoons crumbled blue cheese

6 tablespoons shredded Cheddar cheese

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 cup butter

1 cup sour cream

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/4 teaspoon hot sauce sauce

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 cup chopped crisp-cooked bacon (4 to 5 slices)

1/4 cup thin-sliced green onions

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

Scrub potatoes and pierce with fork. Bake at 400 degrees about 50 minutes or until tender when pierced with fork. When done, slash potatoes lengthwise and pinch with fingers to fluff up pulp.

Meanwhile, in food processor or mixer, combine mozzarella, blue and Cheddar cheeses, butter, sour cream, garlic, mustard, Worcestershire, hot sauce, salt and pepper and whip until fluffy. If mixture separates, keep whipping. It will recombine. Fold in bacon, green onions and parsley. Top baked potatoes with dollops of cheese mixture

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

COUCH POTATOES

This recipe is from “Potatoes: A Country Garden Cookbook,” by Maggie Waldron (Collins, San Francisco). The potatoes may be prepared ahead and refrigerated. Before serving, cover loosely with foil and bake at 375 degrees until heated through, about 20 minutes.

4 baking potatoes, uniform in size (about 1 1/3 pounds)

6 slices bacon

1/4 cup cider vinegar

1/4 cup milk

Salt, freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup sliced green onions

1 teaspoon poppy seeds

Chopped fresh parsley

Applesauce and sour cream, optional

Wash potatoes and pierce skins with fork. Bake at 400 degrees until fork-tender, about 45 minutes. Cool.

Meanwhile, cut bacon into 1/2-inch pieces and cook in broad skillet over high heat until crisp. Drain bacon on paper towels. Reserve 1 tablespoon bacon drippings in skillet.

Slice off top third of potatoes, horizontally. With melon baller, scoop out pulp, reserving skins. Heat bacon drippings and add potato pulp and vinegar. Cook over medium heat until potatoes absorb all liquid. Remove from heat.

Mash potatoes with milk and season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix in bacon, green onions and poppy seeds. Spoon mixture into potato skins. Place on baking sheet. Bake at 400 degrees 10 minutes or until heated through. Garnish with chopped parsley. Serve with applesauce and sour cream on the side.

Makes 4 servings.

YUKON GOLD MASHED POTATOES

2 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, unpeeled, washed and halved or quartered, depending on size

1/4 cup garlic cloves

1 cup milk or half and half

1/2 cup butter

1/2 cup sour cream

1 teaspoon salt or to taste

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Steam potatoes and garlic cloves over simmering water until tender. (Cut 1 potato in half to check for doneness.) Just before potatoes are done, heat milk and butter in small saucepan until hot.

Place hot cooked potatoes (do not let potatoes cool or you will get gummy mashed potatoes) and garlic in large mixing bowl. Break up potatoes with potato masher or with mixer with paddle attachment on low speed. Drizzle in warm milk mixture, beating potatoes on low speed about 30 seconds.

Beat in sour cream, salt and pepper. Increase mixer speed and beat just until fluffy. (Do not over-beat potatoes or they will become gluey.)

Makes 6 to 8 servings.