Replace Old Window Cords With Chains

QUESTION: I have double-hung windows in my home, with cords and no weights, and I’m getting tired of fixing broken cords. Could you tell me how to replace these with springs? What types of springs are available? Also, after I replace the cords and weights, how do I insulate the hollow space and what type of insulation should I use?

ANSWER: If you like the lifting action of the counterweights on the double-hung window, you should replace the broken sash cord with metal chains, which are available at hardware stores. The chain won’t fray or become brittle with age and break.

You can also replace the weights and cords with metal pressure channels. These channels do not provide lifting action, but they have spring-action strips on both side jambs that hold each sash securely in any position. This ensures a snug fit that prevents rattling and minimizes air leaks.

The first step is to remove the inside trim or stop molding from the sides of the jambs and remove the sashes from the frame. Then, cut off the sash cords, remove the old pulleys and clear any obstructions out of the old channels.

Fit the new channels on each side of the sash. Pick up the sash channels together and place them into the frame. Finally, tack the channels in place and reinstall the trim.

Before installing the channels, the wall cavity for the cord and weights can be insulated by loosely stuffing it with fiberglass or Rockwool insulation. You can also pour a loose-fill insulation such as vermiculite into the hollows. If the area is inaccessible, you can fill it using aerosol foam insulation.

Can Subway Coating Be Used Privately?

Q: I have two brick steps at the side of my house that have become porous. Some time ago, I watched workers applying a non-skid cement coating on subway steps. This would be a perfect material to coat my brick steps.

I’ve checked and learned that the material I saw being used is made exclusively for transit systems by Edison Cement. Is there a similar product I can purchase and use at my home?

A: There are several products that will produce a non-skid protective coating for floors and steps. But since a section of your steps is presumably on grade level, it is important that the coating is able to “breathe” and not act as a vapor barrier.

Surface preparation is very important for proper bonding. If the bricks are glazed or hard-burned, the surface must be roughened first. A wire brush mounted in an electric drill should do the job. In any event, it is recommended that you apply a small amount of the product to a test section to check the bonding before covering the steps.

The Sika Corp. has a product called Sikatop 121 Broadcast Overlay that can be applied to steps to produce a slip-resistant coating. It is an acrylic copolymer that allows vapor to pass through and thus will not trap moisture. Contact Sika Corp., 875 Valley Brook Ave., Lyndhurst, N.J. 07071.

Cola to the Rescue When Faucet Sticks

Q: To change a washer on a bathtub faucet, I must first remove the handle. The screw comes out with no problem, but the handle is stuck tight to the valve. How can I remove it without breaking the handle or damaging the valve stem?

A: Usually a light tap with a wooden hammer handle or firm wiggling by hand breaks loose the faucet handle where it has become stuck by dried soap and corrosion. If this doesn’t work, try penetrating oil or even a cola drink. A few drops of cola is an old-timer’s remedy for a number of household and automotive problems.

To submit a question, write to Popular Mechanics, Reader Service Bureau, 224 W. 57th St., New York, N.Y. 10019.