Making the Most of Menswear
The significant other in your life goes to his closet for his favorite blazer and slacks and they’re not there. He sees you leaving the house in something that looks uncomfortably similar. What’s going on?
Beginning with Katharine Hepburn’s tailored trousers and continuing with Donna Karan’s so-called Boyfriend Jacket--inspired by a loose, structured blazer in her husband’s wardrobe--the allure of men’s haberdashery has been a not-so-well-kept secret. Women on the lookout for comfortable fabrics, timeless style and durable construction in their clothing often find all three in men’s departments.
Richard Gray, a personal shopper for Bullock’s Men’s Store, often helps women augment their wardrobe with basic men’s pieces. One client, TV producer Liz Friedman, just purchased a black crepe Calvin Klein three-button suit.
“I first started buying vintage men’s trousers from antique clothing stores because I liked the generous use of fabric and the fullness of the pleats,” Friedman says. To make the suit her own, she adds something bright or iridescent.
Shops that specialize in custom tailoring for men report an increase in the number of women customers. Jonathan Behr, a custom tailor for 10 years with a shop on Robertson Boulevard, believes women have discovered that good tailoring can help disguise figure flaws and fluctuations in weight.
“Jackets with a full canvas front, made without glue or fused facings, give a clean fit,” he says. “Some of my female clients shift in size. A well-constructed garment can accommodate weight gain.”
Michael Sharkey, manager of personal shoppers for Barneys New York in Beverly Hills, suggests that a woman buying men’s clothes for the first time try Giorgio Armani’s black label. She should look for five essential things in a menswear garment, Sharkey says: “Construction, fabric, silhouette, tailoring and longevity of style.”
Construction: Look for a natural shoulder; too much padding will give you the bulk of a fullback. Make sure seams are properly finished with enough fabric for alterations. Any lining should be soft and neatly sewn in. Pleats on pants should lie flat.
Fabric: Wool and cashmere are the best suiting fabrics. Women should opt for crepe and lightweight gabardines since they offer more drape than the heavyweight wools.
Silhouette: Make sure that the proportion of lapels, sleeve and jacket length do not overpower your body type. The lapel shouldn’t look like it needs a squirting flower.
Tailoring: Look for hand-stitching on the edge of the lapel. The stitches should be small and even, enabling the lapels to lie flat across the bust. When buying trousers, remember to sit down. Some styles may be too tight through the hips and butt for comfort.
Longevity of Style: Avoid trendy styling.
