Time to Dairy Down

Despite the flood of low- and no-fat foods on the market, flavor is what we look for at mealtime. No one says, “Wow! Did I have great-tasting low-sodium low-fat chicken broth for lunch.”

How else do we account for the fact that butter sales were up 10% last year? Supermarket dairy sections that used to offer two cream options--half and half and whipping cream--now include heavy whipping cream and imported and domestic versions of Devonshire cream, so thick a spoon stands in it.

The trick, however, is to know when to indulge. When a dish is enhanced by modest amounts of butter and cream, add them. Otherwise, skip the fat. For example, it wouldn’t occur to me to add butter when cooking rice as package directions suggest. I don’t think rice needs it. I don’t even butter popcorn.

But cream of mushroom soup without a velvety finish of whipping cream and sour cream doesn’t deserve its name. The following version of cream of mushroom soup, using butter, whipping cream and sour cream, is luscious, rich and very satisfying. Serve it once a year, but don’t skimp on the ingredients. To complete the indulgence, prepare boneless trout, sauteed in butter, as the entree.

DILLED CREAM OF MUSHROOM SOUP

1 tablespoon butter

1/4 cup chopped shallots (2 to 4 shallots)

2 cups diced mushrooms

1 tablespoon flour

1 1/2 cups hot chicken broth

1/4 cup whipping cream

1/4 cup sour cream

Salt

Freshly ground white pepper

1 teaspoon minced fresh dill

This is a thick, rich soup. If desired, thin with additional 1/4 cup broth. You can use plain white mushrooms, but for more flavor I recommend an even combination of cremini, shiitake and white mushrooms.

Melt butter in medium pan. Add shallots and saute 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and cook over high heat, stirring frequently, until mushrooms are tender and give off juices, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour to form a paste. Stir in 1 cup chicken broth and cook, stirring constantly, over low heat to form a thick soup. Stir in whipping cream. Do not boil.

Spoon sour cream into bowl. Pour in remaining 1/2 cup hot broth and stir until smooth. Addmixture to pan. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in dill and simmer until mixture is hot but do not allow to boil. Serve hot.

Makes 2 servings.

SAUTEED TROUT

2 tablespoons butter

1 small red onion (size of a lime), sliced

2 tablespoons slivered almonds

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons flour

2 headless, boneless, dressed trout (about 1 pound each)

Juice of 1/2 lemon

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in medium skillet. Add onion slices and almonds and saute over medium heat 5 minutes. Remove onions and nuts from skillet and set aside.

Combine black pepper, cayenne, salt and flour in paper bag and shake to mix. Add trout and shake to coat with flour.

Add fish (fish should be in original shape, not butterflied) to skillet and brown on one side 5 minutes. Gently turn fish over and brown second side 5 minutes or until cooked through. Remove fish to 2 plates. Top each with half the nuts and onions.

Wipe out skillet with paper towel. Melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Stir in lemon juice and cook over medium heat 30 seconds. Pour over fish. Serve immediately.

Makes 2 servings.