1994 Marimar Torres Estate Chardonnay ‘Don Miguel...

1994 Marimar Torres Estate Chardonnay ‘Don Miguel Vineyard,’ Green Valley (Sonoma). ($16.99)

This well-crafted Chardonnay from Sonoma’s Green Valley is made in a leaner style reminiscent of a good Chablis. Crisp yet lush, with delicious citrusy notes and judicious use of oak, felt mostly in the soft, rounded contours of its finish, it is one of the few California Chardonnays graceful enough to drink as an aperitif. But it can also be paired with simple grilled fish, seared scallops, poultry and veal.