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International Noodles

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Cunningham's latest book is "Cooking With Children," (Alfred A. Knopf, 1995)

Whatever country I’m in, the local version of noodles in broth is always one of the most satisfying dishes. And the meals are easy to recreate at home.

The garnish possibilities are endless. For instance, if you want a taste of Mexico, have a platter in the center of the table filled with separate mounds of cilantro, chopped jalapen~os, chopped mild Anaheim chiles, chopped cooked chicken, chopped cooked pork, cooked crumbled chorizo sausage and beans, together with a big bowl of salsa and a bottle of hot chile sauce.

If you want to give your noodle supper an Asian flavor, fill the big platter with separate piles of cilantro, chopped green onions, snow peas, button mushrooms, chopped steamed bok choy, peeled and minced fresh ginger root, slivers of Virginia or Smithfield ham and bite-size pieces of chicken breast. Nearby, put bottles of light soy sauce, Chinese wine vinegar, sesame oil (use this by the drop), hot chile sauce and hoisin sauce. Let your guests flavor their noodles themselves.

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This chicken broth recipe also can be a beef broth by substituting 2 1/2 to 3 pounds of stewing meat for the chicken parts. Broth freezes fine, so make plenty. The noodle bowl with chicken is delicious and a good basic guide.

A very simple dessert is best. Try lemon ice, which tastes lovely, fresh and sharp. Small ginger cookies with the ice put a nice period on supper.

CHICKEN BROTH

Salt is important, but lightly salt to begin because the liquid reduces as it simmers and the salt becomes more concentrated. Taste and salt when broth is finished.

3 pounds chicken backs, wings, necks, bones

3 quarts cold water

1 onion, cut in half

2 carrots, cut in thirds

2 stalks celery with leaves, cut in half

1/2 bay leaf

2 teaspoons black pepper

Salt

Wash chicken parts and put in large soup pot with cold water, onion, carrots, celery, bay leaf, black pepper and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer, skimming off debris that floats to surface during first 30 minutes. Simmer, partially covered, 2 to 3 hours. Add more salt to taste.

Strain and cool quickly, uncovered. When cool, refrigerate and when well chilled, spoon fat from top. Freeze if not to be used within 2 days.

Makes 3 quarts.

Each 1-cup serving contains about:

123 calories; 97 mg sodium; 39 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams protein; 0.23 gram fiber.

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NOODLE BOWL WITH CHICKEN

1 tablespoon peanut oil

1/3 pound button mushrooms, cleaned and sliced

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon dry Sherry or Chinese wine vinegar

1 quart chicken broth

1 1/2 cups shredded cooked chicken breast

1/2 pound egg noodles, boiled and drained

1/4 cup cooked shredded Virginia or Smithfield ham

3/4 cup snow peas, ends trimmed, cut into thin strips

Salt

Heat large heavy pot over high heat until very hot. Add oil and swirl to cover bottom. Add mushrooms and stir-fry about 1 minute. Add soy sauce and Sherry vinegar and stir. Add chicken broth, chicken, noodles and ham. When broth boils, reduce heat to simmer and cook about 2 minutes. Add snow peas for last 30 seconds. Taste and add salt to taste if needed.

Fill bowls first with noodles, meat and vegetables, then ladle broth over top. Garnish as desired.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

381 calories; 1,108 mg sodium; 83 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 46 grams carbohydrates; 24 grams protein; 1.19 grams fiber.

LEMON ICE

3 cups water

1 3/4 cups sugar

1 1/2 tablespoons grated lemon peel

3/4 cup lemon juice

Bring water to boil and stir in sugar until dissolved. Cool, then add lemon peel and juice. Freeze in ice cream machine. Can also be frozen in refrigerator freezer: Use 3 ice cube trays (without cube separator) or metal bowl and stir with fork every half hour.

Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

232 calories; 1 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 61 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0 fiber.

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