1994 Dehlinger Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($24.99)

Deep ruby in color, this estate-bottled Pinot Noir from Sonoma’s Russian River Valley is bright with fruit, tasting of black cherries and dark berries. Slightly smoky, it seems lightly fleshed out at first but opens up dramatically in the glass. Most of all, it’s a wine that’s meant to go with food and can be paired with almost anything. Even more impressive is the nuanced and richer Reserve. These are both superb wines, worth seeking out. Because of small production and high demand, Dehlinger Pinot Noirs are somewhat hard to find; if you miss them in stores, look for the wines on better restaurant wine lists around town.