1995 Trenel Fils Beaujolais-Villages ($8.99)

Beaujolais nouveau season officially begins the third Thursday of November, but the 1995 vintage of more traditional Beaujolais is already in the shops. Trenel’s Beaujolais-Villages, which comes from hillside vineyards in the north of the appellation, has all the appeal of Gamay--vibrant, juicy fruit and delicious scent of red cherries tempered with a little tannin and just a touch of bitter. Such a gouleyant or “gulpable” Beaujolais is the perfect indoor picnic wine. Serve it cool with a spread of charcuterie--smoky ham, dried sausages and country pa^te--and cheese. Open a bottle to accompany an omelet, grilled sausages and fried potatoes, or anything similarly rustic.