This Grainy Season

For many years, meat was the centerpiece of the American table, and grains were considered lowly fillers. But the roles are often reversed today. Grains provide the most valuable source of low-fat protein and offer varying amounts of minerals and vitamins. And their dietary value increases when mixed with milk products, eggs, dried beans, fish or meat.

But after the “good-for-you” qualities, the big question is flavor. And grains can be quite wonderful if prepared well, as in this recipe for green hulled barley.

Most people are familiar with pearl barley, but to me it seems plain and pallid next to hulled barley. In pearl barley, the outer hull of the grain is removed; but the whiter (or more “pearled”) the grain, the fewer the nutrients and the less interesting the flavor and texture

Natural-food stores carry hulled barley, and it is very cheap. It is light brown in color. When cooked, it has a chewy texture and a satisfying nut-like flavor. A cup of raw hulled barley yields almost four cups cooked.

Rice is the staple food for most of the world’s population. In this country, the most popular variety is white long-grain rice (short-grain rice is stickier and moister). One long-grain variety worth trying is basmati, which has a nutty taste and perfumed aroma. It is especially good with delicate fish.

This recipe for feathered rice comes from a fine cook, Genevieve Callahan, author of “The New California Cook Book” (1946). To feather the rice, first toast it in the oven, then add it to a casserole with liquid and bake for about 25 minutes. The rice puffs up into something light and fluffy, quite unlike ordinary rice, and with a wonderful toasted flavor.

FEATHERED RICE (Low Fat Cooking)

1 cup white rice

2 1/2 cups water

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

Butter or olive oil, optional

Brown rice may be substituted for the white rice, but it yields only 3 cups when cooked. A pound of rice may be toasted at one time, then kept indefinitely in a covered jar until you are ready to steam it.

Spread 1 cup dry white rice in shallow pan. Bake at 375 degrees, stirring every 5 minutes, until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes.

Remove from oven and put rice into 2 1/2-quart casserole with lid. Pour boiling water over rice, add salt and mix thoroughly. Bake, covered, at 350 degrees until done, 20 to 30 minutes. Add butter or olive oil before serving, if desired.

8 (1/2-cup) servings. Each serving, without butter:

84 calories; 443 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 19 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.07 gram fiber.

GREEN HULLED BARLEY (Vegetarian)

4 cups water

Salt

1 cup hulled barley

1 cup milk

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted

1 onion, finely chopped

1 cup finely chopped spinach

1 cup finely chopped parsley

1 cup finely chopped watercress

1 egg, beaten

Pepper

Add a cup of grated Swiss cheese and this is a splendid main dish. Plain, it makes a fine accompaniment for poached salmon, roasted chicken or braised beef.

Bring water to boil in saucepan, stir in salt to taste and barley, then cover. Reduce heat to low and cook until barley is tender, about 40 minutes.

Drain and mix well in 2 1/2-quart casserole with milk, butter, onion, spinach, parsley and watercress. Quickly stir in egg. Add salt and pepper to taste. Bake, uncovered, at 350 degrees until tender, 40 to 50 minutes. Serve hot.

Makes 12 (1/2-cup) servings. Each serving:

114 calories; 88 mg sodium; 30 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 15 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.28 gram fiber.