1995 Domaine Vocoret Chablis Premier Cru “Montee de Tonnerre,” Burgundy $25

Chardonnay from Burgundy’s northernmost vineyards has a steeliness and crisp acidity that makes it a superb food wine. Vocoret’s premier cru “Montee de Tonnerre” is a fine example. Light and citrusy on the nose, the green-gold wine is gorgeous in the mouth, with a cool, mineral finish just long enough to give away its premier cru status. Drink it with everything from oysters and steamed Dungeness crab to roast chicken.