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LOVE THY NEIGHBOR: A Story of War.<i> Alfred A. Knopf: 306 pp., $25</i>

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<i> Peter Maass worked as a foreign correspondent from 1983 to 1995, based in Asia and Europe. His articles have appeared in the Washington Post, The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal and The New Republic. He is a staff writer for the Post</i>

When you grow up in America, you don’t really learn how foul humans can smell, just as you don’t learn about the smell of death. Taking a crowded bus in the summer exposes you to unpleasant odors, but that is a transitory experience. If you turn your head or move a few steps away from an offending commuter, the smell is gone.

No amount of journeys on buses, however, can prepare you for the stink of refugees. When you enter a sports hall filled with women and children who have not washed for a month, or when you enter a cowshed filled with male prisoners who have not washed for two or three months, you smell something new, and it is terrible. You think that somebody has wrapped a discarded dishrag around your face, and that you must inhale air through it. Of course the smell is disgusting.

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