The Cultured Cheese (LOW-FAT COOKING)

Yogurt “cheese,” also called thickened yogurt, is making a comeback. Creamy but low in fat, it’s commonly spread on pita bread or crackers for an appetizer, but it can also be seasoned with basil, oregano or garlic to make a savory dip. In some Arab countries, yogurt cheese is rolled into bite-sized balls, dredged in herbs and served as a snack.

Western cooks are discovering yogurt cheese as a versatile low-fat ingredient that’s simple to make at home. I use it in everything from desserts to sauces. It’s tangy but not terribly sour, unless made from rather sour yogurt, so it blends well with either sweet or savory seasonings.

You can use any plain yogurt to make yogurt cheese. If you start with plain nonfat yogurt, you end up with a great low-fat cheese that can stand in for higher-fat cream cheese, ricotta or even cottage cheese in many recipes and adds much more flavor.

To make a batch, line a colander with two layers of well-rinsed cheesecloth, then place it over a large mixing bowl. Pour in 1 quart active-culture plain yogurt. Avoid commercial yogurts that are artificially gelled with gelatin because they will not make good yogurt cheese. Look for yogurt that contains active cultures, usually listed as “lactobacillus acidophilus” on the label.

Tightly cover the colander and bowl with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator. The whey will drain into the bowl, leaving the yogurt cheese behind. Leave the colander and bowl in the refrigerator for about eight hours, or until a thick cheese has formed. One quart will yield about three cups. Transfer the cheese to a tightly lidded container. Freshly made yogurt cheese keeps 7 to 10 days in the refrigerator.

FRUIT CHEESECAKE

1/2 cup fine graham cracker crumbs

1 cup halved strawberries or 1 large banana, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin

1/4 cup apple juice concentrate

1/2 cup canned mandarin orange sections, drained

1 cup yogurt cheese

2 tablespoons honey or sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 cup raspberries

Pat graham cracker crumbs into bottom of 8-inch-square baking dish. Arrange strawberries over crumbs.

Combine gelatin and apple juice concentrate in small saucepan and cook, stirring, over medium-high heat until gelatin is dissolved. Gently pour mixture over fruit, trying not to disturb it. Sprinkle mandarin oranges on top. They will sink into the mixture.

Puree yogurt cheese, honey, vanilla, nutmeg and cinnamon in blender or food processor. Pour over gelatin mixture. Arrange raspberries on top. Cover and chill until firm, 1 to 2 hours. Cut into squares to serve.

16 squares. Each square:

42 calories; 32 mg sodium; 2 mg cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.23 gram fiber.

TART BERRY PUDDING WITH YOGURT CHEESE

2 cups yogurt cheese

Grated peel of 1 lemon

1 teaspoon lemon juice or to taste

1/2 cup fresh or frozen raspberries

1/4 cup maple syrup or to taste

Combine yogurt cheese, lemon peel, lemon juice, raspberries and maple syrup in large bowl, mixing well. Adjust syrup to taste.

Spoon into 8 champagne glasses or dessert dishes. Cover and chill 30 minutes before serving.

8 servings. Each serving:

81 calories; 53 mg sodium; 7 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.23 gram fiber.

GARLIC AND DILL DIP

This dip is heavy on the garlic. Serve it with an assortment of freshly sliced vegetables for dipping.

3/4 cup yogurt cheese

1/2 cup peeled, seeded and grated cucumber

1 tablespoon minced garlic or to taste

1 tablespoon minced dill

1 teaspoon salt

Combine yogurt cheese, cucumber, garlic, dill and salt in large bowl. Cover and chill 45 minutes before serving.

1 cup dip. Each tablespoon:

12 calories; 158 mg sodium; 1 mg cholesterol; 0 fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.07 gram fiber.