The Green Party

Fresh salsas--combinations of vegetables, herbs and seasonings served cold--are easy to make at home. Most ingredients can be chopped in a food processor, and the salsas require no cooking.

Salsas are often divided into two types: red salsas based on chopped tomatoes and green ones made of green tomatillos.

My favorite green salsa (salsa verde), however, is made of cilantro, jalapen~os, chopped onions and garlic with a touch of vinegar. I also add a small amount of olive oil--which is unusual in Mexican-style salsas--to round out the flavors.

The olive oil makes the salsa resemble Italian green sauce (also called salsa verde), a mixture of herbs, onion, garlic and a little olive oil and lemon juice, but, without the chiles, the Italian sauce tastes completely different from the Mexican salsa.

If your family isn’t wild about cilantro, use flat-leaf parsley or basil. If you think that basil makes the salsa seem a lot like pesto, you’re right; pesto is also a type of green sauce. Cilantro salsa, however, is leaner than most versions of pesto. It contains less oil and, unlike pesto, it doesn’t contain nuts or cheese. And a small amount goes a long way thanks to the hot pepper.

This medium-hot chunky salsa is good with poached, grilled or roasted chicken, meat and fish, particularly grilled salmon. It also adds a lively touch to plainly cooked beans, winter squash, zucchini or potatoes, and does wonders for vegetarian entrees of cooked vegetables and rice.

CILANTRO SALSA (IT’S A SNAP)

2 jalapen~os, seeds removed, minced

1 large clove garlic, finely minced

1/2 cup chopped cilantro

1/2 cup minced onions

2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

2 to 3 tablespoons water

Salt

Use Vidalia or other sweet onions when they are available. Salsa may be made up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated.

Combine jalapen~os, garlic, cilantro, onions, oil, vinegar, water and salt to taste. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve cold or at room temperature.

3/4 cup. Each 1-tablespoon serving:

25 calories; 25 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.12 gram fiber.