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Steaks With a Relish

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES; Rosbottom is the author of "American Favorites" (Chapters Publishing, 1996)

Steaks with a tomato-leek relish are ideal for special summer occasions. A minimum of preparation is required in the kitchen, giving you more time with your guests, and the dish makes a striking presentation.

The steaks, dark and crusted with bits of aromatic rosemary outside and pink and succulent inside, are delicious paired with the robust tomato relish.

All manner of side dishes would complement this main course. A potato gratin or small red new potatoes, boiled and tossed in butter and sprinkled with chives, are possibilities. Blanched green beans or a saute of zucchini sprinkled lightly with shaved Parmesan cheese are other prospects.

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In place of cake for dessert, consider making creme caramel with coconut-flavored custard and topped with toasted coconut flakes, toasted almonds and sliced peaches.

ROSEMARY TENDERLOIN STEAKS WITH TOMATO-LEEK RELISH

RELISH

1 tablespoon olive oil

3/4 cup chopped leeks (about 1 large leek)

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed, plus more if needed

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more if needed

3/4 teaspoon minced garlic

3/4 pound tomatoes, seeded, diced and well drained

1 teaspoon grated orange peel

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

STEAKS

3/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

3/4 teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed

1/2 teaspoon salt

4 (4- to 5-ounce) tenderloin steaks, about 3/4-inch thick, trimmed of fat

Olive oil

4 sprigs rosemary, optional

RELISH

Heat oil in medium heavy skillet over medium heat. When hot, add leeks and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add red pepper flakes, rosemary, thyme, salt and garlic and cook, stirring, 1 minute.

Stir in tomatoes, orange peel and vinegar and cook only to warm tomatoes, about 30 seconds. (Note: Tomatoes will become mushy if cooked too long.) Remove from heat.

Taste and add more crushed rosemary and salt if needed. (Note: If not using immediately, let rest, loosely covered with aluminum foil, at cool room temperature up to 45 minutes. Reheat over medium heat, stirring, until just warm, 1 to 2 minutes.)

STEAKS

Combine pepper, crushed rosemary and salt in small bowl.

Pat meat dry and rub both sides of each steak with seasoning mixture.

Heat enough oil in medium heavy skillet over medium to medium-high heat to just film bottom of pan, about 1 tablespoon, adding extra oil if needed. When hot, cook steaks until medium rare, about 3 minutes per side.

To serve, arrange steaks on serving platter. Mound Relish on each. Garnish with rosemary sprigs.

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4 servings. Each serving:

299 calories; 659 mg sodium; 66 mg cholesterol; 20 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 23 grams protein; 0.95 grams fiber.

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